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HELP --- Please 258 engine ticking???? HELP

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Texas Justice, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. Jun 8, 2005
    Texas Justice

    Texas Justice New Member

    Deep East Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    Messages:
    27
    I have a '82 CJ-5 that I just had new pipes and a Flowmaster (40 Series) installed yesterday. Muffler is wonderful. My son thinks it sounds cool. I must admit that it does sound cool.... brings back fond memories...

    But I digress.....

    I mentioned in passing to the muffler guy and he had his engine tech take a listen. They say that the sound maybe the rod bearings or the rod bolts that hold the rods to the pistons.

    Because I am sort of mechanically challenged and dont know the sounds of a rod ticking from a valve clacking, I figured I would ask ya'll (yes I am Southern born and bred --- ya'll is perfectly acceptable.... SMILE) what you think.

    The ticking sort of comes and goes, but mostly stays around in the background. When I put a 2x2 against the engine and to my ear you can hear the sound pretty good. That trick was taught to me by my neighbor who races grown men go-carts.

    The engine is strong as an ox, does NOT burn oil and has few leaks.

    Any suggestions or help would be as usually most appreciated.

    Thanks
    Paul-Jr and Paul-3
    Father and Son
     
  2. Jun 8, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    It might be as they described... but rod bearings often sound more like a knock than a tick. :?
    I have a buddy who has an '80 CJ7 with 258. It's a NOISY engine. He had the head rebuilt, it's still noisy... I call it the rattletrap :twisted: Overall, it runs well and strong. I can pick his engine out of any dozen 258s, just by the sound ;)

    I'd try adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil with your next oil change. It might help... won't hurt.
    Beyond that, just run it. :D If it's serious you'll know soon enough... 258s are easy to come by...
     
  3. Jun 8, 2005
    cj5 buggy

    cj5 buggy Member

    hardeeville, SC
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2003
    Messages:
    403
    X2 on what Lynn advise is... never heard a quite one yet... mmm Marvel Mystery Oil..
     
  4. Jun 8, 2005
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,524
    something you might try with the engine running......Be careful !!!!
    pull the plug wires off one cylinder at a time.
    when spark is removed from the suspect cylinder, the knock should go away,
    as that cylinder can't ignite, so less pressure put on the rod and bearings
    don't get shocked, use insulated boot pliers
    don't touch/lean on the Jeep while doing this or ZAP !!!
     
  5. Jun 8, 2005
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,524
    without hearing it or knowing anything about the 258 engine in question...
    carbon knock/buildup can be a problem on these engines as well
    when you shut the engine off, it was running fine
    upon next start-up, knock, knock, knock......sounds bad.....
    chemicals down the carb (following can instructions) can help with this
    just a thought, thats all
     
  6. Jun 8, 2005
    High5

    High5 Member

    Urbandale, IA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    802
    I sure am glad I'm not the only one with a noisy engine. If it's lifter tick, I have heard that you can put a quart of auto trans fluid in with the oil and that should help. Something about the fact it has more cleaning capabilities and still has good lubrication. I heard that on one of the 4X4 shows I watch and have heard it on this forum somewhere. I have tried it, but haven't had any results yet. They said it can take about 500 miles or. That is going to take me a while since I drive about 3 to work and back. :D
    hope this helped
    High5 :beer:
     
  7. Jun 8, 2005
    Texas Justice

    Texas Justice New Member

    Deep East Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    Messages:
    27
    I have a gallon of Mystery Oil, so I am gonna put that in the oil and see how that works.

    Then I will try the transmission oil....

    The engine is running stong as all get out. I would hate to throw a rod.

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I knew I could count on this place.

    Thanks,

    Paul-Jr and Paul-3
    Father and Son
    :flag:
     
  8. Jun 8, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    Paul, the MMO and the auto tranny fluid will do about the same thing. Don't use more than a quart of one or the other, as part of a normal oil change... If your normal oil change is 5 qts, put in 4 qts of 10W30 and one qt of MMO.

    I had a sticky lifter in my V6... quite loud tapping, and rough idle. #4 cylinder wasn't firing... no change when the #4 plug wire was pulled!! Apparently one of the valves wasn't closing so #4 had no compression...

    I drained a qt of oil, then added a qt of MMO, and literally within a day it was running smooth again. Occasionally it would happen again... not the rough idle but a slight tapping. I use a qt of MMO with every oil change now.
     
  9. Jun 8, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,596
    Paul, the most common cause of a ticking noise is an exhaust leak. Since you can hear it with your "stethescope" I don't think that's the problem.

    What's your oil pressure, running and at hot idle? If you don't have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, it would be good to have. You can get them for as little as about $25 at both Summit and AutoBarn. I'd be more suspicious of lifter noise than a rod if your oil pressure is ok, and since you describe this as a tick.

    A rod knock should be load dependent. That is, when you are at low speed (low oil pressure) and accelerating, you'll hear it more than when you are coasting at the same engine speed. Usually your oil pressure will be marginal too, since the sloppy rod leaks a lot of oil. A worn rod sounds more like a knock than a tick - like somebody's hitting the opposite side of the engine block with a soft-faced hammer.

    Rod knock can be mistaken for a worn piston pin or piston slap. Hard to tell piston pin noise from a rod, except that the rod usually progresses a lot faster. Piston slap is worst when the engine is cold, backwards from rod noise.

    Re a lifter, some engines can be run with the valve cover off ... don't know about the 258. Worst happens, you'll make a mess. With the valve cover off, it should be easy to localize lifter noise. Either use a piece of hose as a stethescope, or push on the rocker bridge to try and take the slack out - that would silence a collapsed lifter.

    If you think it's a rod, you can pull the pan off and remove the rod caps. If inspection doesn't show obvious wear, you can use Plastigage to test the clearance. On an engine with a cast iron crank (like the 258), if you see worn bearings, you're pretty much hosed. The only cure is to pull the engine and replace the crank, or get another engine - 258s are cheap and plentiful.

    hth
     
  10. Jun 8, 2005
    Texas Justice

    Texas Justice New Member

    Deep East Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
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    27
    I believe it is a mechanical oil pressure gauge. It has little brass tubing that goes from the engine to the gauge. Seems to have some oil in this tubing to test the pressure, I reckon.

    The engine oil pressure is as follows:

    COLD Start Idle - 45 to 50 lbs

    Normal Warm Idle - 10 lbs

    At load going 55 MPH --- 25 lbs when fully warmed.

    The ticking can be heard really well by putting a piece of wood (ie: 2x2) and then putting the wood to your ear (actually touching).

    My neighbor seems to thing it is the valves ticking.

    The engine does not use a drop of oil (except for the normal 258 stuff.. LOL), what I mean is the exhaust is clean and no smoke. The engine has enough power to pull my mother-in-law :rofl: , so I reckon the engine is still got some miles left in the old gal... I HOPE...

    I am going to try the Mystery Oil, since I have a gallon of the stuff that I got from Tractor Supply for my garden tractor.

    If all else fails, I am gonna just put a killer stereo and drown out the ticking until the engine needs replacing... hahahahahhahha

    Hopefully the oil pressures that I posted will indicate something to someone, because I actually have no idea what they mean. I just know you have to have oil pressure... that is the extent of my oil knowledge...

    Thanks again and God Bless,

    Paul-Jr and Paul-3
    Father and Son
    :flag:
     
  11. Jun 8, 2005
    hudsonhawk

    hudsonhawk Well-Known Member

    North Texas...
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    Feb 4, 2005
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    (Im not a mechanic so take this with a grain of salt) I just had a 258 rebuilt (700 miles on it so far) At warm idle it registers more then 25 lbs pressure. At 55 mph its over 50 lbs. My cold idle pressure is between 50 and 75 lbs.

    If my messurements are good, I would think you have a problem with low oil pressure. Again I don't know if my readings are correct either.
     
  12. Jun 8, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    Yes, a mechanical gauge will have tubing (copper or nylon) between the gauge and the engine.

    That does seem a little low. Usually 258s don't have oiling problems. Mine has 35 psi at hot idle, goes up to a little over 40 at any higher speed.

    According to Smokey Yunick, you need better than 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Low oil pressure can also make the lifters noisy, since they don't fill with oil like they should. I don't think things are gunked up - more likely the lifters are worn, oil pressure is low, and they don't pump up like they should. If so, the Mystery Oil or ATF won't help.

    Yeah, drive it. Keep the revs down. Watch the oil pressure. Use a good quality 40W or 50W single-grade motor oil, like Valvoline - that'll be fine in your warm climate. Add a can of STP oil treatment. See if you can make a little more oil pressure.
     
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