Grizzly Lockers

I just started out, so that bag is full.
It’s the experience bag of mine that’s empty.

 

Now is a good time to up the light guage stamped steel covers if it still has them. You can get affordable used d30 front cover and d44 front covers for about $20 each on ebay. The later front covers are about .188" thick vs the stock .048" or thinner.

 

Alright. That’s something I hadn’t thought about. Thanks for telling me that.

 

I'll also throw in a suggestion for "lube locker" gaskets they are reusable metal plates with embedded silicone seals. They pay for themselves if you ever need to fix a cover on the trail...

 

How do you determine what gauge you are buying off Ebay? Asking for a fiend.

 

The threaded holes will be formed differently. You can also look as the plate thickness compared to the hole diameter around the parameter. Corner radius is less sharp.

 

You can also order a brand new Spicer 705112X. $35.79 at Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12638169



5/32" thick:

 

Tuxes had the softest springs, so if they’re original, that would explain the abuse of the bump stops. Due to the soft springs, the axles also articulate better than stiff springs which can be an advantage depending on terrain.
-Donny

 

This thread is taking a new direction...
That link for the SPICER cover is awesome...THANKS...I might just order me a spare.
I checked my factory D44 rear cover and it's only .071 thick with stiffening ridges around the perimeter.
My original D30 cover is .163 thick.
Rock Auto's Dana30 cover is expensive:
More Information for DANA 2007353 (rockauto.com)
They have many Dana44 covers though. RockAuto
I replaced both of mine several years ago with SS covers. They look nice and clean up easily.

 

I put these Rugged Ridge diff skid plates on both ends of the CJ before last year's Utah trip. They're 3/16 thick and didn't require breaking the seal or draining fluid.

 

Whelp, curiosity got the best of me and I opened up the rear. There’s no major problems to my untrained eye, and I do have a limited slip in the back, which looks like a Powr-Lok from what I’ve seen online. Since the cover is off, what should I be looking for? The Powr-Loks have clutch packs that wear, correct? How does one check that?

On another note, I’ve been wanting to make a diff skidplate for a while now, and I might go with that short-term.
The cover on the back is .070 thick, measured with a standard metal gauge.

 

My computer isn’t letting me resize images at the moment, so I can’t provide any pictures just yet.

I also found a “4.89” tag on the cover, so that helps define the gear ratio a bit.

 

Alright, I've found a workaround. Here it is:

 

Definitely a Powr-Lok.

 

The CJ has some rancho springs on it.

 

Someone has been in there all that blue goo. I highly suggest LubeLocker reusable gaskets. Testing procedure page 2 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...oQFnoECBoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1cD6rnfhx_zEPImcsDjgIf

 

Thank you for the link.

I tried that test, and it would only hold still to 36 ft.lbs., so no beans there. Still, it’s nice that I have the bulk of the system and needing a rebuild will give me the excuse to put on a good gasket and diff cover this summer.

 

Not meaning to be a drag,
But,
The one thing I've noticed throughout the thread is you seem to lack wheeling experience. Not a knock and I'm not meaning to be rude, just an observation.
My suggestion isn't to build your existing platform but to make it solid and wheel it as is.
This will give you a good feel for what can and can't be done without going over your head on something. It will also teach techniques and line decisions.

The stock CJ will do 90% of what most folks expect.

Just my $0.020034 (17% inflation)

 

Check out these videos that FinoCJ posted from last fall's UT trip, posts 223-225. My CJ and his are both locked front and rear and easily made it up the big ledge on Hole in the Rock. Kentons CJ was running open diffs and he made it up, but really had to work for it.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/154204/page-12
Having said that, this is a pretty difficult trail, if you don't plan on doing stuff like this maybe you don't need lockers.

 

Long term, I want to get into rock crawling. There's something I really like about the fabrication work that goes into those trucks, and then there's the technicality of the actual driving.

Right now, I lack the money, shop and time to build a crawler like I want to.

The CJ is the answer that. The Jeep offers good capability with minimal mods and fabrication work. My goal with it is to build a Rubicon-esque-capable vehicle that can still be driven on road. I don't plan on doing any crazy king-of-the-hammers type trails, but I'd like to be able to do some easy-mild crawling in my CJ to get into the rock crawling "community" and get some actual driving time under my belt.

While my goal is set, I don't have much time to work toward it. Since I spend most of my time, bar summers, in school 2k miles away from the CJ, I can't get much offroading in, and spend too much time planning out what I want to do to and with it. That being said, I can get a bit overzealous in my decisions of what I do and don't need on the Jeep.