What Limits Turning Radius?

Wondering which part of the steering system actually stops the wheels at each end of the Left/right travel.

Is it the knuckles? I can't imagine the little nubs on the sector shaft in the ross box are what stop the wheels.

The reason I ask is I've recently had my front end apart. All of the steering components removed. I got the ross box back in today as well as the pitman arm, drag link, and bellcrank. When I turn the steering extreme to each side, the drag link either touches the oil pump (on forward travel) or hits the exhaust (rearward travel).

I'm guessing it's because the tie rods aren't hooked up yet and the wheels/axles would usually keep the steering box from going beyond left and right normal limits.

Just wanted to make sure though before I move forward incase I did something stupid during assembly.

 

It can be a variety of features. I'm going to let the experts of the early style axles and/or boxes elaborate here.
The Dana 30 has adjustable stops built into the knuckle, however larger diameter tires will hit the frame prior to these bump stops bottoming out.

 

Did you put the drag link in backwards?

 

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That was my initial thought so i pulled it out, flipped it, and it definitely did not fit the other way.

Here's how Its situated as of now. It clears everything but at the extreme ends of the travel, it taps the oil pump and exhaust.

Any thoughts?

 

Put everything back together and then test it. You may have more travel than you will use. Your steering stops are the adjustable bolts shown in the last picture
at the knuckles.

 

I also

Thank you! I havent been into the axles yet (next on my winter/spring list) So I wasnt sure how exactly they worked yet.

 

On a standard CJ (standard wheels n tires) it is the specific type of front axle shafts installed that limits the steering angle. The “stops” should be adjusted to fit your axle shafts.
Bendix, Rzeppa or Spicer type.

 

Based on the grease fittings it looks like the drag link is backwards. My forward fitting was inboard and the pitman end was down.

Here is mine before the Saginaw swap. This was a 4cyl jeep originally and I worked around the original steering.
20210502_103717 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

20210502_103638 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

This. The Rzeppas, for instance, will go klunkety-klunkity in a tight turn. I think I've seen where a FSM addressed adjusting to the differences

 

This matters!

The inner components are sequenced to keep the pitman balls "trapped" regardless of the spring pressure, but I believe it is different at each end.

 

Here's a picture stolen from @compostwerks thread http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/157805/
The FSM also has an important read about the springs and cups.

 

So this is what's so perplexing! When I flip it around the other way (as shown in your photo), It hits the exhaust the whole time. It seems as if there needs to be a slight bend to go around the exhaust.
I looked through the photos I took before disassembly and I have it set up exactly the way it was before.

FWIW I have the f134 and bellcrank with ball ends up.
I measured the distance between the pitman arm and the ross housing and it measures 1/4" (as recommended). The pitman arm is perfectly centered in its travel (left and right). I compared the new pitman arm with the old one and they both have the same dimensions and curvature.
The drag link is the same as before but now just rebuilt with new bearings etc.

My only guess is that it has something to do with the exhaust. Maybe its an aftermarket pipe. If the stock exhaust bent slightly away from the engine as it traveled downward from the manifold, even 1/4", I'd imagine all of my problems would go away. Maybe the PO flipped the drag link when they replaced the exhaust during the last "restoration" years ago.

It doesn't look like there's any chance of the drag link being hit by the axle during articulation.

I'm gonna install the tie rods today and I'll update if it stops hitting anything once the axle "stops" can do their job.

I'd like to replace the exhaust pipe eventually so maybe I'll be able to flip it back in the future... but it seems as if the drag link had been oriented for at least 12 years this way haha.

 

I have a Ross connecting rod with a slight custom bend to it that could possibly fix the issue. Your welcomed to it if you want it.

 

OMG YES! Thx man!

 

"I'm gonna install the tie rods today and I'll update if it stops hitting anything once the axle "stops" can do their job."

Do that before you start swapping parts. Not a surprise to me that the steering box has more travel than it should have without the tie rods connected.

 

A slight bend in the exhaust might be the thing. A bend was factory-recommended when installing a PTO shaft.

Just heat with a torch, and pull. Except you'd want it attached to the engine.

 

Just got the tie rods installed and there’s definitely a fly in the ointment somewhere. With the wheels straight ahead… The driver side tie rod was as short as it could possibly be, and the passenger side had way too many threads exposed. Meaning the bell crank probably isn’t aligning where it needs to. Meaning the drag link flip be orienting the bell rank in the wrong spot a couple inches off.

Considering it was like this before… The orientation of the drag link that is… I am wondering if the positioning of my Pitman arm is clocked incorrectly in my steering box?

Guess I’m just gonna start at the beginning and work my way through with everything attached. As it sits, there is a huge difference between the amount of wheel travel. I get left and right, and nothing is aligning.

I must’ve done something stupid somewhere ha ha.

quick question:
The center Mark on the Pitman arm (the little notch engraved in it), was installed oriented in alignment with the vertical ridge in the Ross box that attaches to the forward most bolt hole. Does that make sense? Just wondering if this was correct