52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

A few boxes or tools/parts waiting for me when I got home from work. Finally wrapped up the Ross project. I was waiting on a 15/16" reamer. Beautiful old school quality from National Tool.

It was short work reaming it out. I came in from both ends since the sector shaft was still a bit snug. The reamer is tapered.

Takes out quite a bit of material....

Nice and smooth in there now...

The NOS sector shaft fit right in. I lubed it up with a little grease...A bit on the seal too so I didn't tear it up. I just need to install the cover with the gasket and use thread sealer on the bolts. That was a fun project and I learned a thing or two.

 

Pete was showing me his dance moves today. I guess this one is called the “F-Head Grind”.

 

A master of many talents. You guys go good work.

Dave

 

Pete has been doing all the heavy lifting. I just show up here and there for a few hours to do the fun stuff. It’s a nice project with good company.

 

Yup, update soon....!

 

So yes, Shaun came over to help size up this valve cutting job today. Thank you! I got this setup via UPS Yesterday, From Cylinder Head Supply Inc, made by Neway out of Michigan. Here's the manual for those interested in the minutia; https://sep.turbifycdn.com/ty/cdn/yhst-58082516732612/newaycuttermanual.pdf?t=1709921244&

Gotta love the simplicity of this setup.

The two bronze colored objects at the top are the actual cutters. The one to the right is just one sided and it makes the first cut at the bottom of the seat at 60 degrees. The cutter on the left is double sided and your second cut is made at the top of the seat at 30 degrees. Flipping it over gives you the final 45 (technically 46) degree cut and this is where the valve actually should touch the seat. The diagram below simplifies my crude description. Ignore the 15 degree number, it's correct at 30 degrees for the F134 application.

But the first step is to make sure you have properly sized pilots. Without a pilot, you are not going to cut with accuracy. They are actually tapered and the size that worked for me was .3740 This is the pilot snugged down into the valve guide. You do not want to drive it in....just nice and snug.

Since this was the first time doing this, we took our time. It's kind of hard to put back valve seat material once it's been cut!

The final cut at 45 degrees (technically 46 degrees)....

Thrilled with the results. The grey area between the bottom and top of the valve face is the sweet spot you're looking for. If you look closely you'll see it. The manual said that lapping is not needed. We did anyway, and lapping appeared to make a very big difference.

I have #2, 3 and 4 to cut tomorrow. From there, I'll install the valves, springs, keepers and caps. Wish me luck.

 

Very informative, thanks.

 

Thanks but this info has been borrowed from the wisdom of others on this (and other) forums. I'm repeating it so that I learn and retain. If I don't write it down, it's harder to remember. My goal is to get a couple of years out of this engine and I fully realize that a qualified machine shop would likely do a better and longer lasting job!

 

Thank you Pete for waiting on me to arrive before starting the valve seats. That was a great learning opportunity, and I enjoyed it! I look forward to seeing how much of an improvement there is in compression.

 

Oh, I also primed and painted the steering column and box today, along with a few other parts. It was warm enough in the sun for a change.

 

Arthur and I are back in the shop this morning. He has his priorities with his deer antler....

And I have mine. I needed to adjust the cutters on the 45 degree side. I'm a big fan of this Neway system. So simple. Taking a lunch break now, more later....Pete

 

Arthur looks like Frasier's Eddie

 

Similar. Arthur is a Jack Russel but he's a 'shorty' Jack with a broken (rough) coat. Eddie has longer legs and a somewhat smoother coat. Great dogs, lot's of energy and an agenda of their own.

 

Your progress looks good. That engine is shaping up.
Lots of energy is for sure. My brother has one named "Mr. Bones." Great dog always has energy.
They got another dog to keep him company. He has a huge Mane Coon Cat that rules the roost. Vern (the cat) keeps both dogs in line.
They always have a have a ball.

Dave

 

Some progress on the exhaust valves. Keepers are very small and a pain to work with.

My nice new to me valve spring compressor. Awesome tool. Block of wood so I don't score the deck.

Keepers need to be installed beneath the rotation cap...

Keepers installed, hard to see...

For the inexperienced (me), this is a bit time consuming but doable with hand tools. I have 3 and 4 to do tomorrow.

For all the leprechaun's out there. Here's a pot of gold....

 

Looking good. I like the patina on the other M38A1. Looks like a lot of fun to drive.

Dave

 

Have you tried a dab of grease to hold them?

When I was in high school had to do a valve job over the weekend. Needed the car Monday morning. Working outside I managed to fire one of the keepers out into the darkness, on a rainy night. Spent quite a time combing the wet grass, but eventually found it.

 

That's exactly what I did. A dab did just fine thank you. So far, I haven't lost one yet Pete.

Hey, when are you ready to pull that engine...? Happy to help!

 

Thanks.

I did fire up FlowerPower today, started easy on six volts after the winter lay-up. Felt pretty good driving to town with the windshield down - even at 50ºF. Got a few smiles and friendly honks.

 

Dave, that's my 54 A1 and I've tried to strike a balance between preservation and patina. It's 12 volt with a civvy engine but aside from the 1/2 cab and grill, it's fairly correct. The current 52 project is in much better shape all around. I've put many miles on the 54 over the years and when I have time (next winter?), the power plant needs to come out since the clutch is getting tired, the tranny/transfer needs gaskets/seals and I think the rear main seal is leaking. I'll probably find other things that need attention.