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D44 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Nov 2, 2023.

  1. Nov 2, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Might as well start a thread on this so i can ask questions in one place as I run into problems.....This is 19spline, tapered D44 in the 58 whereas my CJ has the 30spline unit which I am a bit more familiar with.

    So question....where are you all finding the best place to get the outer axle seals etc....i see the standard suppliers all carry the same Crown and Omix seals:
    [​IMG]
    Rear Axle Outer Oil Seal w/Gasket Fits 46-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 41/44/53 | Kaiser Willys
    Rear Axle Outer Oil Seal w/Gasket Fits 46-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 41/44/53 | Kaiser Willys
    [​IMG] www.kaiserwillys.com
    Are they functional?

    Also, do you guys typically replace the grease cover cap as well? Mine are not looking great, but not horrible either.....
    [​IMG]
    New Rear Axle Outer Grease Protector (2 required) Fits 46-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 41/44/53 | Kaiser Willys
    New Rear Axle Outer Grease Protector (2 required) Fits 46-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 41/44/53 | Kaiser Willys
    [​IMG] www.kaiserwillys.com

    Going to need the inner seals as well, but that is pretty typical stuff.....
    thanks
     
  2. Nov 2, 2023
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Almost $30 each for the outer grease seals!! Stuff has gone way up. If yours still has rubber on it I’d reuse it. On th other hand it’s no fun getting all the way back into those if you need to replace them in the spring.
     
  3. Nov 2, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    i think the Crown seals are what we have, unless you find a rare NOS on ebay. If you are worried, call Sam at Partsdude4x4, he has experience with what he has sold, and stands behind his stuff. He has a sale going right now because he went to SEMA without me.
     
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  4. Nov 2, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    Rock auto has
    Skf 20168 at $17.63

    I guess I need to start working on a bill of materials myself for the 4.27s
     
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  5. Nov 2, 2023
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
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    753

    If he is going through the effort to strip the axle mightt as well put freash seals in it. I cant imagine rebuilding the axle just for it to leak, especially getting gear oil on the brakes

    James do you need brake to the dana 44? I think i still have a complete set of 10" drums if you need them
     
  6. Nov 3, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Thanks....I have 11" Bendix drums with parking brake for this. Removing the parking brake cable from the 11" Wagner drum was a bit of a PITA...not exactly sure how it's all going to work with the Bendix set, but it's been done before...
     
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  7. Nov 3, 2023
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    they make a tool for that
    parking brake tool.jpg
     
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  8. Nov 3, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    There are a lot of pieces to this and I don't even have the housing removed and R&p out.... definitely a bit more going on with the tapered hubs as opposed to the flanged axles...
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Nov 3, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    Now is the time to measure the shim stacks at the end of each tube.
     
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  10. Nov 3, 2023
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
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    :watch: Going to watch this one, i have a 44 under the Jeep now that needs new gears and tru trax.
     
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  11. Nov 3, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I am not taking photos every step of the way documenting....I did that more with the CJ5 D44 rebuild and locker install (although that was a 30 spline unit so a couple differences) around the hubs and axle shafts etc...

    of course....and I'll put them here for future reference if needed (like I loose my notepad)...these are the 'removal' numbers
    Axle shims - right side only: .085 total
    .060
    .010 x2
    .005
    *does not include the .155 retainer plate on each side

    Pinon - outer (small): .071 total
    .030 x2
    .005
    .003 x2

    Pinon - inner (large): .032 total
    .012 x 2
    .005
    .003

    Ring gear Backlash: .010

    Bolt side shims: .043 total
    .030 x 1
    .010 x 1
    .003 x 1

    Tooth side shims: .049
    .030 x 1
    .010 x 1
    .003 x 3

    And a pic of the pattern:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2023
  12. Nov 4, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
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    Of course, to get all those measurements, that means I got it pretty much disassembled:
    [​IMG]

    Still need to press off the inner pinon bearing, and to remove the carrier bearings - although I was hoping to wait until I had the clamshell bearing puller for that. Last time i got them off with my large bearing splitter, but its not the best method, and it will probably damage them - I was hoping to make set-up bearing out of them. I can always work on getting the pinon installed with proper depth and preload while waiting....the pinon seal was at the end of its life as i could tell from the oil seepage, but it was rough enough that a bit of grit and moisture etc got in, and driving the pinon and outer bearing race out was a bigger PITA than I remembered. But overall, the bearings seem very good - guessing they never got a lot of miles on them, but mostly sat unused for many years. I replaced the gear oil a few years ago, but it was still pretty nasty....lots of carbon and thick gunk stuck on lots of stuff.
    [​IMG]

    I can also work on cleaning up the housing....and the last two things still in the housing are the inner oil seals that I need to pull....one of the axle bearings look to have red grease and one was black - so someone has been in here messing with things. In both cases, the 'grease' was very stiff, and what is sitting up against the inner oil seal is maybe grease mixed with clay and whatnot all caked and dried up.
    [​IMG]

    Anyway, I have all the bearings and shims etc as part of a rebuild kit I bought awhile ago, but need to order the axle/hub grease cups and oil seals....
     
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  13. Nov 4, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    Keep up the documentation as time allows! We enjoy your writing.
    Question for the experienced eyes following: what hardware is one time use? When we watch metalshaper he will toss everything away and get the super special mil spec crossdrilled and wire tied bolts for everything.
     
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  14. Nov 4, 2023
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
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    So much to look at, ...... I've been looking at making the axle bearings run in an oil bath instead of pulling them and greasing them every year.

    But today I'm cleaning the garage again and pushing everything that's in my way into the stables behind the garage. I am in need of a little more elbow room. :coffee:
     
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  15. Nov 4, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    I'm not sure what your running at the moment but on the tapered 44 the outer seal isn't very good (hence the catch cup and drain) you can go to a full floating rear axle with good seals on the hub. Some lockout hubs don't seal too well so drive flanges or a flanged shaft would be a better seal.
     
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  16. Nov 6, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    So I am cleaning up the housing and chasing threads etc....a couple questions:
    1) where is the breather supposed to be in this unit? I am not finding a breather anywhere - maybe it was originally in the cover, which has since been replaced?
    2) I don't recall on the later D44 in my CJ that the carrier bearing cap bolts go all the way through the housing....seems like a little thread sealant might be a good idea on those (3 out of the 4 go through....
     
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  17. Nov 6, 2023
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
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    The breather is just a small hole in the drivers side axle tube. Its facing rearward a few inches away from the spring perch.
     
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  18. Nov 6, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    I'm not sure that's how the trucks and wagons were but in this picture the 1/8"npt fitting nest to the left spring is where i drilled and tapped the old pin hole. It was the size of the grease vents on top of the wheel bearings. Extra tiny.

    [​IMG]20220410_154720 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
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  19. Nov 6, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Thanks...found it just as you guys said.
    [​IMG]
    I was looking on top of the tube too much as that is where it is on my 70. Putting in new zerks for the axle bearings (one is not working), and thinking of plugging this vent (weld) and drilling and tapping a breather valve into the top of the carrier housing. This is about where I drilled the 70 housing for the locker wiring to go through. Then if desired, I could always thread in a nipple instead with extension hose....but not a huge concern on the 58.
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Nov 6, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 Cool school 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    Yeah i'ld weld the old tube vent where mine is tapped. Don't weld the wheel bearing grease vents. Just tap those if you want to seal them from the elements.

    New vent on top of housing will make your 2nd e-locker install with full floating axles a cake walk.
     
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