Clutch Cable Length

I am switching to a cable accuated clutch. Normally you would order a 58 1/4" cable from Inline Tube, however my transmission is an SM465. Much longer than the T14a. I am wondering if someone with the same setup as mine knows what length cable they ordered. Mine is a 1971 cj5 SM465 and a Dana 18 TC. I have the bracket on the transfer case and a bracket on the frame for the clutch pedal. Thanks in advance.

 

I did the same as James for the T18 swap in my CJ. Just measure the difference between the overall length (including adapters) between the 3 speed & the 4 speed. Then use the coupling nut & threaded rod to extend the cable that much.

 

I tried to get clever on my T-18 swap and cut and re-welded the cable bracket on the transfer case to put in in the same spot post conversion:


However my cable was still way too short. Not sure why. Must be some combo of the pivot location in the new bellhousing and the height of the new throwout bearing. Like the others above, I made a temporarily permanent fix by making a spacer by threading some 1/2" OD tubing:


It's been working for a couple years now:

 

mine isn't pretty . but it works

 

and while we are on the subject of clutch cable
I might add here is the weak link to that set up

there isn't a lot of metal there at the ball end . I've had two failures like the one above
my solution was to cut off ball end and replace it with a bolt
then with a grinder . shape the bolt to where it fits into slot of clutch fork
after that reshape the bottom side of bolt head to a half ball shape . the part that seems to disappear
it's held up . to the point . the broken one . still hasn't been repaired

 

Agreed that this is a weal link, but if you're grinding a bolt down to fit in the slot, won't it be just as weak?

 

well no cause . I make a two sided flat . width of bolt
unlike the small diameter of factory part
not the best picture . but I wasn't going to drop the cable

 

Thank you guy's.

 

Just an idea. Could you remove the ball, drill, and tap the end of the weak link. Then use something like a rocker arm pivot up against the bolt head like a washer. You could tack the pivot in-place and thread lock or tack the assembly in place.