Can Anyone Help On These Brake Drum Size

Fair enough. But it's not difficult, and it changed my life for the better when I got a double-flaring tool. Keeping a coil of tubing and assorted fittings on hand has saved me countless hours of frustration and wasted travel.

 

Saves money too.

 

I like the Titan double flaring tool.
Simple, compact, well made, inexpensive !
One can certainly make as good or better tubes than you could buy as new/ preformed.

 

Another vote for 11” brakes. I upgraded from the early 9” (non self energized) to 11” in the front and the stopping power is at least 3x stronger. Sourced a set of 11” backing plates for the rear and am planning to install those soon... but just upgrading the front is a night and day difference

 

Another option for an 11" drum brake upgrade which was more common back in the day is to use the 11" brakes for a Willys Pick Up truck. They are similar to the 9" brakes on a CJ, and are manually adjusted but they do provide better stopping, and are easier to find nowadays than the self adjusting, self actuating 11" brakes more often looked for today.

 

When I had a working hand I was 8 out of 10 flaring success rate. Just not worth my time for the savings on something I need to do every 10-20 years then and now with a bum thumb saving $100 for an extra 5 or so hours of work isn't my cup of tea. Sure if I did it often enough it would be 2 hours but I try to avoid vehicles with hard lines to begin with.

 

Thanks. I need to get a pocket full f cash and come shopping in your barns. Lol

 

Sorry, but I have plans for the last set of those I have.

These came from parts bought from the Sam H. Werner estate. The guy I got them from had a whole trailer load of them, and they sold like hot cakes at a logging camp. If you never have, you might want to check out the Sam H. Werner Museum in Mont Eagle TN. It is a very interesting place if you like old military Jeeps and other stuff.

I have been down sizing my stash of parts the last couple years, and am getting down to just the stuff I will use on the projects I have going, so not much left to shop in my barn. I am getting to the age where I want to spend more time enjoying driving old Jeeps and less time working on them.

 

Benebob, What year Interceptor do you have? I have a ‘69 Mk2, and my brother has a ‘70. I haven’t ridden mine for over 20 years, but I don’t remember the brakes being that bad. There’s a fairly powerful double-leading shoe setup up front that gets the job done.
It does fade a bit when making a second hard stop from from near triple-digit speeds, but most bikes of that era weren’t any better, until discs came out a year or two later.
-Donny

 

A 61 VAX 700, single shoe set up that is horrible. Nothing I've tried has made it passable. Rear works well but the front you're better putting your feet down. Making some progress today, got all 5 wheels pulled sanded and repainted. Weirdly the "spare" was on an old bias the other 4 were on radials and one of the wheels is completely different. I wondered why the studs didn't stick out a little beyond the nuts on that one. Plan is to put order some cheap Walmart Dextero 235/75 15s unless someone says not to as it will crown too badly on the stock rims. Also got the front of the plow and the mount sanded and primed as well as the bumpers as a previous paint job was done painting everything gold. Back of the plow could use it as well but all the Meyer stickers are still there and in great condition so I don't wanna. Looks like the rear drums aren't in the solid shape as the fronts so I will have a look inside but may be replacing the drums and lugs. All my lug studs are lefty loosy, I was expecting both lefty and righty. Finally had a bolt snap on me today. It was holding the badly mangled step on the passenger side on. Still pretty amazed how easily most bolts come loose with just a little pb blaster soaking in before turning.