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4.2l 258 Engine Problems - Bent Push Rods - 1973 Jeep Commando

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by WillyBoy12369, Jun 24, 2023.

  1. Jun 24, 2023
    WillyBoy12369

    WillyBoy12369 New Member

    Montana
    Joined:
    May 1, 2023
    Messages:
    11
    I’ve posted some of this before (thanks to everyone who has responded helped) but here’s the overview, alittle bit ago I bought a 1973 Jeep Commando with a 4.2l 258 engine, with a Carter 1BBL, the odometer says 03612 miles i assume thats 103,612 miles last on the road from the documents was 1993/4 I was told a bunch of stuff i have no idea whats true or not (was told it was rebuilt by the previous owner old timer mechanic) was hard for me to believe but is possible as it being off the road for 30 years. Before running over i put Marvel Mystery oil and lubricates down the cylinder and cranked it over by hand. It turned over but didn't have a gas tank installed, was told it ran rough but starts with gas in carb which it did. I brought it back, oil was high and smelled like gas very thin, believe that was a mechanical fuel pump diagram bad (replaced), Carb was leaking out the Metering Rod onto manifold so i rebuilt it, continued to leak although a lot slower, got it to run but was flooding and never really idled running real rough stalling, sometimes sounding good but felt like the timing seemed to be off (sometimes). Dove into the distributor, cap had a hole in it plastic inside and very dirty and felt like it wasn't worth fixing for the price of overhauling (spark plugs failed every test, plugs), so I bought a CRT Performance HEI, installed it and still running very rough never idling going back and fourth sounding decent to bizarre sounds. Almost got it idling but something was off it was running different every-time i adjusted with the best when i had turned the distributor a significant amount. It would not even really start when i had it perfectly set up and pointed on cylinder #1. The spark plugs were getting fouled dry soot on specific cylinders time and time again. It was smoking excessively while it was running. Thought it was me, although I have a decent amount of mechanical experience not much with distributors and timing. Did even more research and was leaning towards a timing chain, did a timing chain test from TDC i saw from EricTheCarGuy on YouTube, find TDC on compression stroke than turn the crank in reverse watching the Rotor, stopping the moment it starts moving, 7 degrees or more is unacceptable, it was 9 or 10 degrees. Which made sense, wasn't thrilled but felt like i had the problem finally figured out. Bought The day before my new compression tester finally arrived, frustrated I decided I should pull the valve cover (i know should have long before).. And I have I have 4 bent push rods, see picture, Cylinders #1, #3, #4 and #5 I believe this isnt new and i bought it like this (maybe not) but i know the guy i bought it from never got it running correctly and his father whom i bought it from absolutely turned it over / got it running with gas down the carb. I never had it running very long at all.


    I now think it was sometimes jumping back into the rocker seat when running decently but never all together, none are broken and I am seeking some advice on what my next steps should be. After my research my hypothesis is likely the Timing Chain is very off and prob jumped a tooth causing this and/or because of sitting for such a long period of time valve/springs stuck causing this. Soo now I am beyond frustrated and seeking advice on what my next steps should be, I got a good deal on the rig knowing this engine might be trash and i was interested in swapping to a v8 but wanted to enjoy it and make sure all other elements of hte vehicle was sound before dropping money. Now i have a lottt of time and decent amount of money into this engine and I don’t know what to do, what other damage this caused? I dont want to dump money into this engine just to find out the pistons are screwed, the valve cover doesnt look very gunked/slugged up but maybe PO cleaned it? From what i have read alot of guys just throw in new push rods and make sure the valve seats are loose and operating correctly, change the timing chain and everything works perfect. But I am not sure about the compression of the engine, overall condition of everything, I know i have to replace Fly Wheel (missing teeth) prob should replace clutch at the same time. Manual 3 Speed seems to be operating correctly so is the T-Case fluids seem good. I dont know if should pull the head inspect and clean valves and just replace the push rods, or swap to a 4.0 7120 that would be atleast a upgrade? Or just call it quits on this engine and look for another one? I already have the timing chain kit on the way, should i just replace the rods or pull the head before going any further, if so what should i be looking for more damage? Sorry for the long explanation but wanted to give a detailed overview for some background

    Any advice / help / direction would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. Jun 24, 2023
    WillyBoy12369

    WillyBoy12369 New Member

    Montana
    Joined:
    May 1, 2023
    Messages:
    11
  3. Jun 24, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,825
    The 258 is a good engine, generally. At 100K miles, maybe a rebuild is worthwhile?
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2023
  4. Jun 26, 2023
    WillyBoy12369

    WillyBoy12369 New Member

    Montana
    Joined:
    May 1, 2023
    Messages:
    11
    I agree for the most part. Is there any way to test out the condition of the cylinder/piston with the head off??? I’m debating doing a 4.0 Swap and don’t want to pour money into something that has a bunch of other problems. I am tempted to buy all new push rods and a few valves, lifters and see how it truly runs… but they would be putting it all back together just to do it again
     
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