How To Install Fuel Pressure Regulator And Fuel Filter. 1964 Cj5. F-134

Just ordered a fuel pressure regulator and Inline fuel filter but am having trouble figuring how how/where to install them on my f-134 1964 cj5.
The PO put the fuel filter AFTER the pump, before the carb.
The kaiserwillys site says to install the filter BEFORE the pump/after the tank. and the Pressure regulator after the pump/before the carb.

I just have no idea where I'm supposed to mount the regulator or how it attaches to the current set up. I also have googled and failed how to use or where to hook up a pressure gauge.

Here's what the current plumbing looks like. Please ignore the vice grips on the fuel line. I had to find an easy way to stop the fuel from leaking out of the carb the other day when I got home :

and here are the regulator and filter I'm planning to run:

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/fuel-pump-pressure-regulator-fits-41-71-jeep-willys

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/inline-fuel-filter-kit-fits-41-71-jeep-willys

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't have ANY experience with hard lines. whether they are for fuel,oil,etc.
I'm a novice and learning.

Does anybody have pics they can share of their setups?

Thanks in advance!

 

Could this be a good location for the pressure regulator? There’s already a splice in the hard line here so it would be a bit easier. Just wondering if it needs to be mounted to something rather than floating like the filter was.

 

I vote to fab a bracket and securely mount it. The engine compartment is the last place to have fuel spraying around. I am not sure why you want a regulator on your engine.
Looks like a Holley 12-804....1-4 PSI. Holley had some issues with putting the wrong spring in them. Are you using a gauge? If so, check your output pressure. Kinda pricey: $31 at amazon $41 at summit.


That said: Some of the other boards have reported that these can go catastrophic and burn down your rig. They are chinesium and recently secretly upped the alcohol in the fuel to 20%. Alcohol may deteriorate the diaphragm prematurely. Personally, I would not use this in my Jeep. A quality regulator and gauge will be $200-$250. Then use a good quality -AN lines. When using soft lines get a good quality fuel injection rated hose. Not trying to be a know it all...just my input and others would probably agree. John

 

And therefore a place to avoid rubber lines/connections in pressurized lines.

 

Have I missed something? Why do you need fuel pressure regulator?

 

I don't like to see rubber lines with those clamps above the exhaust manifold.

I avoid having any rubber lines with clamps in my system.

 

I was having issues with fuel spitting out of my carb. Was told that if I put one of these in the fuel line, it might help the problem from coming back.

so it’s this particular regulator that’s a problem? If so, which one should I get?
I’ll buy a gauge tomorrow to confirm my pressure before hand though. What range am I looking for? I’ve heard 2-4psi?

 

Like others have said, you should not need something that the Jeep did not come with unless you have done some major upgrades,engine replacement, serious trail usage, etc.
I am with you on getting a gauge to check pressure. 5-7lbs is somewhere in the normal range though I am not an expert on the 4 banger. A carburetor rebuild may be in order if not
already done.There is also a possibility your fuel pump is sucking air. Check your oil for the smell of fuel.
Could have bad parts, float, sticking or needle and seat. The new fuel formulations go bad more quickly than the old stuff. As I understand it, Sta-bil does not work as well anymore
in long term storage. The alcohol is always present and draws in moisture. Now there is more in it. The last time I drove my convertible with the top down on slow mountain road, the
smell was bad. Never noticed that before. Good luck and please post your findings. John

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9710

I have this one plumbed into my f-head, at 2 lbs. Runs great uphill, downhill. Replaceable filter in front of the fuel pump.

 

A pressure regulator will be of little help as long as the fuel line remains in close proximity to the exhaust manifold. The fuel in the line from the pump to the carb is boiling. This creates excess pressure in the carb, hence the leakage. You have quite a few other issues which are exacerbating your problem.

 

Welcome from Michigan. You can take the top off the fuel pump and rotate it 180* and that will make it easier to plum with the outlet in the front, then use a brake line to make a fuel line, you can buy them at Auto Parts Store, you don't need to double flare the end for fuel. There is a screen in the glass bowel to remove debris from gas from fuel going to the carb, so I don't use a fuel filter. The motor in the picture is on a Runin stand so I use a rubber fuel line on it for fuel. Like Oldpappy said should have metal line in motor area going by exhaust. I see no reason for a fuel pressure regulator on an F 143 with a stock fuel pump. Good Luck.

 

The new ethanol permissible blends for regular gas are not 20%, but 15% https://www.forbes.com/sites/dianaf...re-a-lose-lose-for-americans/?sh=4a1ead2a5c8d
https://www.reuters.com/business/en...anol-gas-lower-pump-price-sources-2022-03-30/
https://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/faq.php?id=27&t=10and a farm subsidy.

The rubber lines you have on your present filter will end up leaking and deteriorating. They WILL leak and since they are right above your exhaust manifold, will burn down your rig. I posted about this a couple years back when I saw ALL of my rubber lines leaking.. They were less than 2 years old. I can only surmise this is because of old stock rubber not designed for alcohol.

Don't install that pressure regulator as a bandaid for other issues.

Get that fuel filter out of there, plumb it into the line from the tank to the fuel pump. Either buy a fuel filter with threads and get the corresponding fittings to make the connections or get a mechanic to do it.

Take the line from the pump to the carb and make a new one that goes away from the exhaust.

Then drive the dang thing. Half your issue is that it's not getting driven. Its going to leak and get worse. These things need to be used or passed on to another.

 

The OEM YF carb should have about 2-1/2 psi fuel pressure but the correct "Jeep" float valve also has a smaller orifice than other vehicles, and a spring-loaded needle. That reduces flooding in rough/steep terrain.

Historically a pressure regulator was sometimes used as a band-aid for carbs with the wrong parts.

But the pictures above do NOT show a stock Carter YF carb. Solex?

What is the actual psi spec for your carb? What is the fuel pump actually providing? Don't guess at stuff or you will go down the rabbit hole.

 

Initially the talk was 20% and I have not researched this since...therefore the post. I agree with the all you have said.

 

The New Solex I stalled today had a big sticker warning on it saying "TO AVOID FLOODING. MUST USE A PRESSURE REGULATOR SET TO BELOW 4.5PSI"

MY CURRENT FUEL PUMP, PER KAISERWILLYS.COM SAiD IT PUMPS AS A 2-4PSI RATING. SO IT SHOULD BE IN THE NICE RANGE WHEN I EST IT TOMORROW.

IF ALL IS GOOD, I"LL JUST SKIP THE REGULATOR AND CHANGE THE LOCATION OF THE FUEL FILTER TO SOMEWHERE BACK DOWN THE FENDER TOWARDS THE TANK. MORE AWAY FROM HEAT.


I just need to clean the PCV and oil bath air cleaner before I will be able to fire it up and check for oil leaks and fuel pressure!

Stand by! WISH ME LUCK!!!

 

The reason to put it before the pump is it will filter debris before the pump, thereby helping the pumps longevity.

The downfall is most mechanical pumps are "pushers" not "pullers". This means it takes a lot less crud to stop fuel flow through the filter if it is installed pre instead of post pump.

 

On my Jeep I had the Solex carb and no problem when all is clean inside. I added a fuel filter by curiosity, far from the exhaust, no need of fire.
After some months there was nothing dirty in the fuel filter, in fact no use.
You should not have any problem with a Solex carb (if not too cold outside) and a F 134.
My only problem is that I used 95 oct fuel and it works better with 98. NGK spark plugs technical sept explained this to me. Valves become dirty and that's not good.

 

I had a problem with too high fuel pressure causing flooding. I rebuilt the carb and it still flooded,
I put a fuel filter before the fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the carb.
Set the regulator for about 4 psi. Flooding stopped. Fabricated a bracket to stop vibration. Works fine.

 

This

 

I finally bought a fuel pressure gauge and when I tested it today it help steady at 3psi! Looks like I'll be returning the fuel pressure reg I bought!
Now just need to find the right fuel filter setup.