134 rear seal replacement

Welp sunday I decided to make a 2 hour sunday drive up to my buddies house north of me. Well A putted along about 35 mph most of the way up there and the jeep ran fine . I got up to highway 40 on the last part of my trip which Id figure Id run 50 by the speedo which should be 55 on the road . Well about 10 miles down 40 I begin to smell burned motor oil a few minutes later it was sepping around the tranny hump . Well I got to my buddies house and poped the tranny cover to find motor oil was being slung off the flywheel and coming through the inspection plate cover. I figure its the rear seal. so I was wondering if I could replace it like on a chevy with the motor still inframe , by taking off the pan and removing the rear main and spin the old seal upper half out and spin a new upper half in making sure to cant it a few degree to reduce the chance of a seam leak. Any body ever try this with a hurrican , or at lest know how the rear seal is made? If it is a rubber 2 peice seal like most modern motors have in them.

 

Jason,

Yes, you can do it that way. Wire the clutch in, loosen the bearing caps slightly, and replace the seal as you described. A major part of most rear seal leaking is those pesky rubber plugs. Doc Vern recommends forcing RTV in there under pressure instead of the plugs. Idea being that it'll force it's way into all the little crevices. (but not so much that you block the oil return hole in the bearing cap...) The caveat to the whole thing is making sure it's squeaky clean with brake cleaner. Trying to slide the seal up there with a bit of lube AND RTV on the ends is uh, interesting to say the least. I just did mine about 50 miles ago, and knock on wood, so far so good. All I have leaking now is gear oil from somewhere on the front of the tranny. Funny, I thought a sealed front bearing would prevent that....

Get the FelPro kit #BS3165. It is a wider seal, and creates a bit more of a baffle to keep the oil inside.

For recon work, try http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Engine/Rebuild5.html Poke around on the other pages as well for other info.

Also try http://mvpimages.net/willys/knowledgebase/willyskb.shtml
and type in "rear main seal" or other obvious phrases. You'll get HUNDREDS of messages to sort through. In particular, look for a member named "K.R." That's the Doc.

HTH

 

I can just tell you what was recommended to me by guys that have changed theirs in the L heads.

Fel-Pro is the only one everyone recommends (Walck's), mine's on the bench ready to change this week or next. Drop the pan then loosen the crank slightly to pull the upper half out. I was told an old choke wire works good. Just feed it up and over to hook it and pull it out. Since I'll have the tranny/t-case and clutch out, I didn't pay attention to if you can change it with the bell housing in or not. Maybe someone will know about that.

Also, some guys have to go back and change them again, kind of hit or miss it seems.

Good luck,

 

Thanks Guys , Ill post the results.