153 Chevy lump installed.

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Truckedup, Nov 26, 2012.

  1. Nov 26, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    I rebuild the 153 Chevy engine,bought a Novak adapter kit,and in it goes in my 47 CJ2A. Fabricated motor mounts from scrap steel using the stock Willys mounts. Made up an alternator bracket also.The mounts are offset to clear the oil filter and fuel pump on the right side.Everything that is supposed to clear does so by a hair.The engine is tilted up as far as it'll go without massaging the body.I have a low profile starter coming. Once it's in I can trim the bellhousing as much as possible for front shaft clearance.The engine oil pan was a no go front sump.I modified an S10 2.5 rear sump pan to fit.I'll need to use an electric fan because the water pump is too low.The stock radiator is too nice to hack off the shroud......Better to buy a 200 buck aluminum replacement.
    Not a bolt in swap :rofl:

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  2. Nov 26, 2012
    n6ifp

    n6ifp Sponsor Sponsor

    San Bruno/...
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    Looks good, nice work
     
  3. Nov 26, 2012
    mikec4193

    mikec4193 Jeepless for first time since 2007....

    Mechanicville ny
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    Hey TruckedUp

    Any idea what year that motor is?...I am looking for one and cant seem to find anything except I keep finding marine engines...I dont know a thing about them. From what I have read the Iron Duke came in the early Chevy II's thats all I know. Your project looks great from here.

    MikeC
     
  4. Nov 27, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    This engine is a 1970 by the numbers.The Marine engines are the same except for the bulky intake/exhaust not really usable on a land vehicle. Most have front sump pans that create installation problems. I used a rear sump pan off a 151 S10 Iron Duke engine.The pan required reworking around the rear main cutout and some massaging for oil pump clearance.The stock CJ2A brake pedal lever needed to be heated and bent an inch to the left,the floor hole and pedal rod "adjusted" to fit.On full left turn the drag link just touches the bellhousing.The front drive shaft comes real close to the clutch housing.I trimmed some material away,now I have a low profile starter so more bellhuousing will be trimmed.But it drive shaft will still get close to the starter and the front differential close to the engine timing cover area when the suspension is fully compressed.This Jeep is lifted was 2 inches from stock,the engine tilted up as far as possible.OH Yeah,the 400 buck Novak adapter kit. Guys tell me you can buy used ones for 50 bucks all day long ,I saw none in six months.The 153 water pump sits to low so an electric fan is necessary.The stock radiator can be made to work...but...the stock radiator is a very nice original...I'll sell it and buy an after market aluminum version. This is not a bolt in swap but an interesting challenge with issues of a typical swap.
    The good,the 153 is somewhat lighter than a stock flathead. It'll take 3500 rpm all day long,and looks like it belongs under the hood.
     
  5. Nov 27, 2012
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Looks good, but I would keep close tabs on the cantilevered motor mount adapters. That is asking a lot of two 3/8" bolts even if they are grade 8. If the driveshaft/starter clearence is a problem, look into one of the compact aftermarket gear drives.
     
  6. Nov 27, 2012
    jwjeep60

    jwjeep60 in process

    Sedalia Mo.
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    x2 remember the 134 has a plate that cradles the engine. by cutting out the center the weight of the engine wants to break off the cast iron bosses because of the lever.
    I might consider something more, like adding a heavy skid plate to the pan then run ears or threaded rod to reinforce what you have.
     
  7. Nov 27, 2012
    Old Doug

    Old Doug Member

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    I just pulled one from a boat to use some day. Looks good i will be takeing notes.
     
  8. Nov 27, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    Maybe,but this is a 2100 pound Jeep with about 80 real HP.I've seen similar engine mounts survive 3 times the power.
    On the cantilever mount extensions, A 3/8 grade 8 bolt breaking strength is nearly 8000 pounds....Figure 1/10 that for a safe dynamic load...times four bolts,that's 10 times the engine weight.
     
  9. Nov 28, 2012
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I guess it depends on what you use the Jeep for. Static loading wouldn't be of much concern to me either, but that loading will be well eclipsed by dynamic loading if doing much off road. It only takes once to see what carnage a broken motor mount can wreak to make one a little cautious and over-design them by 100%.
     
  10. Nov 28, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    It's used off road but not jumping and rock climbing with a 350 HP V-8 and huge tires.Think of a typical Chevy V-8 motor mount.. Three 3/8 bolts to the block and one 3/8 or 7/16 long bolt as the sole fastener between the rubber mount and metal frame mount held on by three more bolts.Mountings like that withstand 600 HP drag race starts and it isn't the bolts that break.
    The way I built the mounts isn't ideal...But it was inexpensive and in my opinion more than adequate for the vehicle.
     
  11. Nov 28, 2012
    Old Doug

    Old Doug Member

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    What did you use for a starter on your v-8 Jeep? I know it would have the same problems as your new jeep if you had same trans.
     
  12. Nov 29, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    Well,I'm using a cheapo Ebay Mini starter. It's the style with a short outside bolt and rounded off design giving as much drive shaft clearance as possible.But it's not all that much........
     
  13. Nov 29, 2012
    Old Doug

    Old Doug Member

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    I have been around alot of jeeps but never new about the starter being so close. I put a 250 6cyl with a 350TH in my 86 CJ7. The drive shaft was close to the trans. The long wheel base most of helped on it.
     
  14. Nov 29, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    I don't know,there's thousands of SBC's in 2A's and 3A's with a T90/D-18 ,they use the same bellhousing as the 153,same block mounted starter,at least since the early 1960's.So unless the Jeep suspension is lifted 6 inches or the nose of the engine is jacked up 10 degrees,they all got the same close clearance as me.My 2A is lifted 2-3 inches.
    I have 4-1/4 inches before the front suspension hits the stops.If I limit it to 3-3/4 inches it'll have a margin of safety for driveshaft to starter clearance. At least for the way I use it. The front end is a little higher with the lighter 153 set up.
     
  15. Nov 29, 2012
    jwjeep60

    jwjeep60 in process

    Sedalia Mo.
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    sorry for demonstrating concern.
     
  16. Nov 30, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    Don't be,we have different opinions on what's going on.Without opinions there's no discussion.
     
  17. Dec 1, 2012
    Truckedup

    Truckedup New Member

    Western NY state
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    We'll leave the suspect motor mounts now that the engine ,transmission and transfer case is all bolted in.I had to swap the guts in the transfer case because the original case was cracked around a mounting ear.Had to swap out the main drive gear for a longer T90 version used on the trucks.Fabricated an alternator mount and that header.I had no stock exhaust manifold,couldn't find one so I built one from pieces left over from past header builds.A bit crude but passed the leak test and fits well.
    As mentioned the front drive shaft to starter clearance is a bit tight.Had to cut away the clutch housing to get what's needed.A pieceof sheetmetal will fill the gap.The photo makes it look closer...
    The top of the clutch housing just clears the firewall "toeboard" with a 2-5/8 thick tranny to clutch housing adapter. A large pry bar added a touch more room.

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    The existing 2A clutch linkage was modified a bit... Not the best photo but I ground off the weld on the linkage cross bar upper lever.Then pressed it down about an inch so it moves to the drivers side.This allows a new clutch rod made with Heim ends working with a modified late 40's Chevy truck throw out bearing fork to clear the lumps on the side of the transmission.

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  18. Dec 2, 2012
    div4gold

    div4gold New Member

    Ocean Shores, WA
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    Weren't those engines installed in some of the factory produced Jeeps?
     
  19. Dec 2, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
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    The 151 was used in CJ-7's and Scramblers (CJ-8) I know for sure. Not sure about late CJ-5's. the 153 Chev engine he's using were used in DJ-5's but not in CJ's.


    Sent from my iPhone
     
  20. Dec 3, 2012
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Active Member

    moorestown, nj
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    Yup, i own a Dj-5 with the 153, at a quick glance you would mistake it for an f-head. its a nice little engine, they were used in nova's. the Dj-5's, well at least mine came with a 2 speed powerglide automatic.
     

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