Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by GillaFunk, Jun 22, 2021.
looks alot like the custom 44 I built for mine 20 years ago
The above was on a NAPA U Bolt box.
Well, the spring plates and u-bolts are in. Ill pick them up tomorrow. Gear oil arrives for pumpkin tomorrow. Brake bleeder tool arrives Friday. Soooo...if all goes well, I'll be ready to drive this friday afternoon. God willing.
Once everything is together I will update the original post with all part numbers so anyone who wants to do this can replicate the install.
Well, its in. Now that shes installed, the axle definitely looks beefier than the scrawny Dana 27.
It really is a direct bolt on. I'm still in shock.
1) Tie rods are simply too short for my comfort. TRE's are only threaded in about 1" in order to maintain rough alignment. So, as I need longer rods anyways, I have opted to go with a tie-rod flip, and will have to decide what vendor I want to use.
2) Apparently I'm an idiot and failed to secure the jam nut on my torque wrench and totally over-torqued the U-bolts, and they are now probably unsafe to use. So, I will need to have another set cut.
3) As I was finishing up for day, and wanted to at least take Dorris around the block, I have somehow developed an ignition issue and she wont fire. How I developed an ignition issue doing an axle swap is beyond me.
So...the saga will continue.....but for now.....
It's a jeep, they have a myriad of ways to ensure that you will continue to spend time and money on them.
Looks great! looking forward to your parts list, I would cut the ubolts off to keep them from catching on rocks, etc. but thats just me
Yeah, Im probably just going to replace the bolts as I bent the **** out of them.
I just updated the parts list. I believe its everything you need to do this.
Sound great. How I wish I would had used Roxor instead of a Dana 30. Cost would have been the same
Maybe sell me your 30 to help pay for your 44.
nope keeping 30, jeep almost done.
Roxor steering linkage installed.
Had to shorten and re-thread the tie rod, but otherwise she fits right in. No more dual tie rod carp. Jeep steers better, easier and is more stable. Will flip the rods at a later time when I do the frame off and convert to power steering.
Looks great. Is that with the stock steering box?
Yes. I’ll try converting to power once I do the frame off. I just wanted this thing road worthy so I could actually drive it and put it to work
This thread is awesome. I'm a little late joining in but have been doing some research to attempt the same upgrade on my '66. Quick question, did you have to get a new front driveshaft or did the same one bolt right up? What about your master cylinder, are you still running drum brakes on the rear? Don't you need a dual reservoir master cylinder to run discs up front and drums in the rear?
axle bolts right in exactly how l’ve described.
one issue which I am currently resolving is in fact the brakes. The residual pressure valve in the master cylinder applies to much pressure causing the front brakes to drag a bit. This will eventually cause too much friction and heat and likely cause brake failure.
Once I’ve resolved that small issue I will update the thread with pictures and parts list. In short, drums still on rear. You will need to remove The residual pressure valve in the master cylinder, install a 2 pound pressure valve on the front brake line, and a 10 pound pressure valve in the rear brake line. The original master cylinder, in theory will suffice. I have hit a number of delays which have prevented me from completing this task.
Awesome, thank you for sharing your experience so the rest of us can take notes!
Hey kid pay attention when you read. Both questions you asked were in his initial post.
Is the axle tube wall thickness 1/4" or 3/8"?
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