Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Rodney, Jan 9, 2021.
Did they pay you to get it ?
No. I just had to clean up the yard for him.
That'll buff out... Hehe.
We've been getting hammered with snow this week and the power went out last night around 10:30 . So the shop was cold and dark today. I did get the Brake booster delivered by UPS today. I bought a new 7" chrome booster for $25.00 from a guy who's radical cam gave him no vacuum to run it. The master cyd is Mid 80"s Ford F150. The clutchmaster and slave cyl are 85-89 Chevy Astro Van. "never seen one with a stick" The were the Cheapest matched set on fleebay, $14.00 for the master and $12.00 for the slave with free shipping.
I did manage to cut out a paper pattern and transfer it to a sheet of 12 Gauge steel for a new firewall mount.
I finished the inside floors and tool box under seat, added extra metal where seat belts mounts. I lined up and squared the body on the frame and marked the body mount hole locations.
I then removed the body from the frame and flipped it over , drilled the body monting holes and finished the floor supports and other gussets and angle supports. I used 1"x2" channel instead of hat channel since I wasn't Spot Welding like the factory. I did weld tubing inserts into the body mount in the channel instead of using oak. (Whose idea was it to Use wood in the hat channel)????Cj5 Floor Supports 007 by Rodney posted Feb 2, 2021 at 6:22 PM[/GALLERY]
I like the speed you work at. At this rate you will be ready to Rubicon with us in July.
I just try to keep moving forward. One day at a time!
I added an additional angle support for the tail gate, after cutting and grinding, and chiseling my way through the rusty lower valance piece below the tailgate. The tailgate hinges will now bolt
not only to the original piece, but through the angle also. I still need to trim the angle for hitch clearance.
I cleaned up the firewall a bit, had to cut out one entire side that was torched out all jagged and was a major rusty mess,
Then I cut out new panels from surplus cabinets that I found in the scrap bin at Auto Metrix fab shop.
The driver side will be drilled and laid out for the Power Brake Booster and Clutch master cylinder before welding into place. When I first drew out the pattern, I cut the clutch master bolt holes on the center line, and then noticed that it sits a little sideways. So only the side ways holes will be drilled.
I'm about finised chasing rust, so I got the new driver side firewall plate drilled for the new 7" booster and clutch master cylinder.and spot welded in place.
Then I started on the swing pedal system. I'm using all 1/4" plate for the frame work and the pedals are 3/8" x 2" tortion bar flat stock from "Torque Tube Axles". Too hard to drill with carbide.
I cut and welded the pedals to match the angle of the floor boards to get as much travel as I could.
Both pedals max out the master culinders right at the floors, so I might put adjustable stops at the floor. The pedals have built in stops for topping out. I need to add brackets for return springs, And I need to source out a brake light switch and make the bracket before I get too far along.
I finished welding the new fire wall plate in place, and spent some time finishing up the welds on the swing pedal assy. I added return spring brackets and a stop light switch mount. I also drilled and installed grease fittings and then painted all the pieces.
I went back to the under world today and finished a few welds, then shot 100 lbs of sand. Cleaned everything up with the shop vac and air hose. I mixed up some Rust Oleum Red rust Primer with Lacquer Thinner so it would dry in cool weather. I shot 3 coats on the bottom, fender wells and fire wall. Kind of a milestone to get some primer on it after all the chasing rust for a month.I'm trying to decide it I want to finish it with a matt black, or go with body color on the bottom and inside the tube.
What color is the tub going to be?
If I were going with a color other than the tub, I think I'd go with white or light grey on the underside, to brighten things up when you need to work under there.
I'm planing on doing the tube White.
I unwrapped the 302 and mated it up to the 4 speed Top Loader and Dana 18.
I slung it from the over head hoist and trolly I beam and set it into the frame after cutting and grinding a ton of (bird $hit) welded cross members and old 260 Ford side mounts off of the frame..
I then set the engine and transmission in the stock transfer case location so that the drive shafts will fit with just new u-joints.
I ordered a new set of Early Bronco 302 motor mounts. They should be to the local Napa store tomorrow along with the Dana 18 rubber side do nut mount. Then I can fabricate the frame mounts up to the new engine mounts.
If anyone is interested, I have a brand new Mustang/Passenger car front sump oil pan that the front diff, would not be happy sharing it space with. I need to order a Bronco rear sump pan and oil pickup tube.
A 5.0L mustang pan will give you the most clearance to the front diff. It's got a bevel on the passenger front corner that the truck and bronco pans don't have:
Your block won't have a provision for the rear dipstick, but you can drill it our yourself or by a pan for a '79 Mustang that has a dipstick provision built into it:
Mustang Oil Pan w/ Dipstick Provision | (1979) - LMR
Thanks. My engine is actually a 1987 Mustang 5.0 HO and it does have the driver side dip stick hole with a plug in it.
So you're all set for a cheap Fox mustang pan then.
I decided to go with a bellhousing/block mounted hydraulic slave cylinder even though it was not the easiest. I milled off about an inch of webbing on the aluminum bell housing to have a flat spot between two bolt holes and made paper pattern and then cut a piece of flat stock to fit and drilled the bell housing bolt pattern and the slave cylinder holes.
I then cut and welded a top strap to stiffen it and brought another shorter piece of angle around to pick up a bolt hole on the front of the block for 2 7/16" and one 1/2" mounting bolts.
Even though it's 9" long from the top bolt to the bottom of the bracket, it's strong as he!!.
I spent a little time on the lathe and made an adjustable push rod.
Yep $25.00 with $13.00 shipping on flee-bay and another $28.00 for the pick up tube. Unless the weather clears enough to make a trip to Pick N Pull.
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