How Do I Fix This? - Light Bezel Clip

How do I go about fixing this clip on the front head light chrome light bezel. Is that a solder, a screw, or maybe a rivet? Figure I can drill out the broken pieces in the two holes. But then what. Guess I could tack weld it back on, maybe. Any suggestions appreciated. Want to fix so I can rechrome them both.

 

I would try drilling out the bosses and securing the bracket with a self-tapping screw.

 

Jbweld

 

solder it back on . ring is pot metal

 

I thought it looked like solder. Would I drill out the old, and then use the plumbing solder and flux from the hardware store? Admittedly not experienced in this area. But can sweat a copper joint well enough to hold water!

 

one I wouldn't use the propane torch . pot metal doesn't like a flame
get a heavy duty electric solder iron . something like used in radiator shops

 

The proper name for these is "headlight door" but I found them listed as a "headlight bezel." As mentioned, these are alloy ("pot metal") and that's mostly zinc. They won't stand contact with torch flame - too oxidizing. Looks like the bracket was originally peened to the ring - have you tried peening over the edge of the post with a punch? You may be able to reattach the bracket that way. What is Zinc Alloy? - Eyka Metal

Soldering would work - zinc solders very very well - but zinc conducts heat very well too and you'd need a lot of poop from whatever iron you used. That ring is a big heat sink, and you may never heat the joint sufficiently. A Weller soldering gun on highest setting might work - maybe. be sure to clean and flux the joint before you start. I would avoid acid flux, since acid dissolves zinc (Zn + HCl -> ZnCl + H2 ... immediately). Do not use the acid core plumber's solder, or the paste flux meant for copper pipe. Use rosin flux and rosin core or solid wire.

A tinsmith would use a whomping big soldering iron heated in a stand with a direct flame.



Maybe these have an electric analog today, I don't know. This is the sort of tool you'd use to solder a copper standing seam roof.

Lots of trouble for a part that's available aftermarket. Jeep PN 5460087. CJ5 Headlight Bezel - just an example. These are actually for '76 or later, but the only different is the earlier doors do not have recesses in the center ring so you can adjust the headlights without removing the headlight door. '76-up have them.

 

I picked up a vintage electric one for soldering copper roofing. It is 500 watts or more as I recall, hot enough to smelt iron ore.

 

Good Advice from all...and appreciate the ideas and knowledge shared here. I'm going to give the soldering a try with the rosin solder, if that fails then JB-weld/screw. I know it is a lot of work...9 months and counting. My goal on this build is to be as close to factory as possible (some exceptions tires/lift/wiring), using as many original parts as I can. I have bought stuff for this project that I would have preferred not to use, but some things were just beyond repair. Buying those omni/crown parts with the intent to get the jeep on the road ASAP. Then replace the Omni/Crown stuff with the proper jeep NOS or used restored parts found over time. My white whale is a '74 tagged WITCO top! Check out my build link in my sig....