Brake And Clutch System Install

There where a few posts/threads about using the brake and clutch system in a Early Jeep. I decided to go with power brakes when I was doing a Saginaw power steering conversion and also put in a new Flaming River steering column.

In this write up, I skip around a little, so read the whole post before doing anything.

After looking at the price of the pedal assembly, master cylinder w/booster and hydro clutch, I decided to purchase the items. The cost was reasonable and the big thing for me was, it was going to be (as I like to say) "plug and play". Everything will fit together.

The first thing I mocked up was the pedal assembly, when I did this, the pedals were very close to the under seat gas tank, almost to the point that it was difficult to push the pedal down. A problem at the start, not good. After looking at the Roxor parts break down, there is a brake light switch that goes on the pedal assembly. The thought was, how much does the switch push the pedal to the firewall? I'm not using the switch, so I figured out the threading on the switch mount and got metric bolts and nuts to match. I installed the bolts and nuts and moved the pedals to the firewall to the point it would be comfortable when driving. The next issue, since I moved the pedal to the firewall, this will shorten the stroke when applying brakes. I did some research and tried to find what was the stroke of the master cylinder that Roxor was using, no luck. I then looked on Summit Racing, looking at Wilwood products and others and came up with a consensus. Roxor uses Girling Brake components and I was looking at Wilwood. I figured there isn't much difference in the two and most of the design is "follow the leader". What one manufacture does the others usually follow if it works. Looking at the Roxor master cylinder and how it would work when the brakes are applied, there can not be but a few inches of travel of the piston when applying brakes. As of this posting, I guess I could have put the master cylinder in a vise and pushed the piston in to see what the travel was.

After coming up with a estimate of travel to push the piston for the Master cylinder, I was able to adjust the bolt and move the pedal closer to the firewall. This gives space for foot movement and allowed enough stroke in the master cylinder to apply brakes and not have the pedal hit the floor before brakes where applied.

Next I installed the Booster and Master Cylinder. Since moving the pedal forward, I decided to move the Booster away from the firewall. I installed flat washers on the studs between the booster and firewall. I was able to put about a half inch of flat washers and still have enough threads to hold the booster when bolted in. When bleeding the brakes the pedal does not bottom out on the floor so I am getting a full stroke.

During the install, I was moving the pedal assembly around trying to find the right spot. I cut a little off the top and pushed it up against the bottom of the cowl. The brake pedal is close to the steering column, half inch or so. With the pedal arm this close, you need to watch the movement of the pedal through the whole swing so it does not touch the column. The reason for moving the pedal assembly to the left is because of the size of the booster. The booster, when bolted up, is very close to the valve cover. I don't know if you can get the valve cover off? You might be able to roll it up and get it off. I have a rebuilt V-6 engine and I'm not worried about this, at this time. If I needed to get to the valves, all I would have to do is unbolt the booster, disconnect the push rod and move the booster over. With flex brakes lines I, can leave the brake lines installed. The Roxor pedal assembly is made to bolt into the dash. I did install a couple of bolts which really firmed everything up.

On the clutch cylinder I just bolted it up, no problem.

At this posting, I have only driven the Jeep a mile or so. I have carburetor problems and no license or insurance.

When driving, the brake pedal was softer to push than it was when I was bleeding the brakes. I guess that is the power brakes? I pressed the pedal hard to make a quick stop, there is a bunch of stuff in the back of the Jeep and that started to slide forward, so I let up on the pedal. I also did a disc brake conversion on the rear and have new ceramic pads all the way around and they need to be broke in.

USING ROXOR PARTS (This will be update as as more is learned in the future)

PROS:
Everything bolts together.
Good price point.
Quality looks to be good.

CONS:
Booster close to value cover.
Could not reinstall the washer pump in the dash the pedal bracket was in the way.

DON'T KNOW YET:
With the lawsuit going on, parts availability in the future?

 

Pics?

 

I'm wondering about this too...
X2 on the pic request!

 

Think about buying a booster w/ master cylinder and clutch master and sticking them in the basement. If something goes bad will just be a parts swap. I bet the stuff they used is stock items from the manufacture, not a special run. Just finding the correct part will be the issue

 

Bolts in dash


Pedal and steering column


Pedals and floor


Clutch master


Booster and washer shims


Booster and valve cover


The set up

 

Nice clean looking insall.

 

2 things that come to mind about this install.

1st is the washers used to space the booster to the firewall. Think once the final thickness is figured out I would switch it to a solid spacer. More spacers equals more areas for possible movement/loosening.

2nd is the fact the pedal does not contact the floor when fully depressed. In normal operation I know it will not normally go that far, or at least it shouldn't. But, later on like when bleeding the brake system I could see damage being done to the master cylinder when fully depressed. Even a master cylinder that does not bottom out can be damaged by the piston moving further than normal. Moisture in the system can corrode the bore and score the piston seal when it travels over the area.