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Rear Deck Removal

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by TigerShark, Apr 21, 2005.

  1. Apr 21, 2005
    TigerShark

    TigerShark Sponsor

    St. Louis, MO
    Joined:
    May 27, 2004
    Messages:
    333
    Well, I thought I had a plan... :rofl:

    I decided to replace the rear deck in my Jeep since it's riddled with rust holes. My original plan was to cut out the old one leaving about a 1/2" lip around all of the edges to use as a platform to place the new deck on, then just weld it up.

    When I got the new deck in, I expected basically just a flat sheet of metal. To my surprise :shock: , the edges are roled about 3/4 of an inch forming a box around the outside (like the original).

    I assume the original deck is spot welded along the rolled edge from underneath. Has anyone ever removed the deck? If so, is there a relatively easy way of doing it? I guess my other option is going back to my original plan and just cut the edges off from the new one (making it just a flat panel).

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Jim
     
  2. Apr 21, 2005
    Ghetto Fab.

    Ghetto Fab. Member

    Atascadero, Ca.
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    512
    You could do that and be just fine. I think the correct way is to drill out all the spot welds and then pull it out. Probably very difficult with the body still on the frame.

    Kevo
     
  3. Apr 22, 2005
    61CJ5

    61CJ5 Member

    Lafayette, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2003
    Messages:
    188
    Your way would work. If you wanted to remove the whole deck, I would cut it like you planned to, and then drill out the spot welds. It would be pretty easy to do once most of the deck is gone. A 1/4 inch bit should work, it will be fairly obvious where the welds are. Then put the new panel in, and weld it in from inside the wheelwells, through the holes you drilled .
     
  4. Apr 22, 2005
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,126
    Jim, I've done this twice now, on both Tonka & a doner tub I bought. The problem isn't along the sides, thats just time consuming. The front edge along the riser is a bit of fun due to the spot welds being used both along the top & the front of the roll. The back edge is under the tailgate opening re-inforcement & is a Real B____:(. You can see some photos of what you'd be getting into on my web site. It was a lot harder & longer than it looks :(.

    Unless you're realy into looking "Factory" I'd say that if the remaining "lip" is in good condition then go with your first plan.

    H.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    What Howard said. Done it myself a few times if you go back origional way you'll be happier with it. Just get some spot weld bits from Eastwood, they make quicker work of it. If the metal is rusty on the floor side often a wide cold chisel works well also in conjuction with a grinder..
     
  6. Apr 24, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    I did my '2A, and it was set on doing it the right way. My tub was off the frame, and sitting on saw horses in the driveway at the time. It was a bear.

    The biggest dilemma I had was that the replacement panel had the front c-channel support (the one that runs crosswise under the seats and serves as a body mount) and I couldn't see how to remove the origianl one without removing the toolbox, etc. That and the aforementioned tailgate lower lip and rear body filler panel under the tailgate.

    If I had it to do over again, I think I would have gone your route.
     
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