Steering Parts To Look For

1971 dauntless.
Swapped in a D30 up front and will be converting to power steering as the Ross box is worn and PO cut the original column at the worm to do a poor Chevy tilt conversion.

I have the power steering bracket and pump installed, but been trying to figure out what vehicle would be easiest (and available) to rob the steering linkage from?

looking to try to use an original size steering wheel for nostalgia, and like someone’s use of an aftermarket column (Warloch maybe)

Having never rebuilt this much steering, I’m hoping someone can point to a car and tell me to take everything from x, expect to modify y, and it should be doable...

Tried looking at the Saginaw thread for ideas, but wasn’t finding an answer to this as easily as I hoped. Fully understand each swap is different and that with so many variables, this may not be a 1 answer is best, but any direction would be appreciated.

 

You might be able to re-use the original column; modifying the lower end for the u-joint.
Maybe this has already occurred ?
Is the p/s box already mounted ?
Can you post some photos of what you are working with ?
You'll get more feedback that way.

 

I used the AA kit with my original Ross column and steering wheel and a box from a mid '90s Grand Cherokee.

716806 : Jeep 1942-1970 Power Steering Kit (Borgeson Style) | Advance Adapters

My tie rod and draglink are from Steering

You can probably use a stock gear box, pitman arm, tie rod, and draglink from whichever year Jeep the front axle came out of.

Mike

 

Is there a particular box that anyone prefers for this kit?

 

Thanks for the responses. My NT Dana 30 is from a commando, so that makes sense to use that box then I guess.

using the AA kit I suppose works, then one of the after market columns that looks close enough to right. (The original steering column is long gone)

 

You might be able to find a takeout column and wheel from someone doing a conversion to a modern tilt column and smaller wheel. I think a lot of people just throw them away when they are done.

And the finished product.

Mike

 

Nice, Very Nice, The best of both worlds, old school looks and modern steering, what more could you ask for. Good Luck

 

nice! Question. I’m getting ready to upgrade my steering shafts and joints as I’m adding power steering. I also already have a tilt column installed. Do those joints just slip and lock nut on?

 

I used a cheapy Summit steering column.

 

Yes, you can/should drill the shaft to provide a divot for the set screw. And I used red lock-tite on both the set screw and the locking nut.

Be aware of how far you are seating the shaft into the u-joint. You want it seated as mich as possible without interfering with the joint operation.

Also the shafts are raw steel and rust quickly. I wish I had painted mine before I installed it.

Mike

 

I know there are a lot of options on where to get these but did you find a good quality vs deal location?

 

The shafts are just a straight piece of steel. I used Borgeson and Allstar brand off Amazon and Summit. The joints are a little more critical. I used Borgeson joints. Two came with the Advanced Adapters kit and I had to add a third one from Summit. Nothing is available here on the island.

Mike

 

You need to have a slip joint somewhere in the steering shaft.

 

The AA kit includes a collapsible shaft.

Mike

 

AA is in my town but it seems as though their prices are a bit high for these types of product you can get elsewhere. Anyone else have that same feeling?

Also, is Stainless Steel worth the up sell? I’m leaning that way. Thoughts?

 

Unless you plan on painting the 3/4" DD shaft, i feel its something worth never having to worry about it again, once finished

 

Yeah that’s what I was thinking. I know it’s not a “show” Jeep but I also want it to look nice and clean. I’m fine painting bit SS seems worth it.

 

I see both collapsible and non fir steering shafts. Why is it necessary to have collapsible?
I’m looking at stainless steel parts and don’t see that with collapsible option.
thoughts?

 

Two reasons-one, so you don't get your face pile drived by the steering column in the event of a front end collision.
Two, the frame flexes as you go over bumps, especially off road. You need to have some give in the shaft to account for that.