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Blalp!’s Build/project (‘64 Cj5)

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by blalp!, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. May 7, 2023
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    3,526
    Blalp- are you familiar with this “tie rod flip”?
    You’d probably flip your drag link but the process is pretty simple. I had a similar problem and just did the draglink on one of my Jeeps.
     
    blalp! likes this.
  2. May 7, 2023
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Messages:
    2,158
    There's enough meat to the pitman arm just ream from the top, use a flange nut and locktite on the bottom. Goferit is out of business. A 2 hole knuckle for the passenger side would also improve things you could do a complete tie rod, draglink flip.
     
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  3. May 7, 2023
    vtxtasy

    vtxtasy oldbee 2023 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2006
    Messages:
    1,242
    That would be a good improvement and much easier than relocating the steering box mount. It also keeps the shorter pitman arm.
     
    blalp! likes this.
  4. May 31, 2023
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
    Messages:
    226
    [​IMG]
    After much thought, opted to move the steering box ahead 3”. I made what was the front lower mounting point into the rear lower point. I then added two new front mounts (upper and lower). Next, an inch was cut out of the long tie rod and tapped just over an additional inch. Now the tie rod and drag link are positioned correctly and don’t interfere with each other. After setting the toe, a test drive that became a few hours long was a success!
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2023
  5. Sep 16, 2023
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
    Messages:
    226
    I was excited to get the 4 speed installed and just couldn’t wait until winter.

    I got up early one July morning and said “Stay focused on the outcome and get it done!”. Well, that was a mistake. The two bottom holes of the GM NP435 were threaded. I made the quick decision to drill out the threads, as apposed to bolting from inside the bellhousing. OOPS! That was a mistake that cost me the rest of the day.
    [​IMG]

    After a few minutes, I realized studs were needed. Both the hardware store and I didn’t have exactly what I needed, so I had to make them. This was my first attempt at a threading operation on the lathe. It would have gone a lot faster if I had a threading dial. After about an hour I had this.
    [​IMG]

    What the stud looks like in the transmission. The studs were installed in the bellhousing first. Then nutted on a little at a time from side to side until tight.
    [​IMG]

    The crossmember was inspired by Norcal69. This was my take on it after a quick consult with him. The trans mount holes are sleeved. The crossmember to frame bolts are recessed. The drivers side angle is a bit steeper to make room for future uses (PTO winch and/or two into one exhaust)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After a couple weeks, I was finally at a point that I could test drive it. While it’s a hard pull out of 1st, all the synchro gears shift very nicely. The narrow ratio is exactly as I had hoped, and is much better than the T14. While on my test drive I gave the chassis a good undercoating, by leaving a bolt out of the transfercase. Thought it was a blind hole, but I was wrong. Drained what was left of the oil, no metal flakes, refilled, and drove. Seems okay.
    [​IMG]

    The tunnel cover is still in the works. Trying to improve throttle pedal comfort at the same time. Moving the seat back 3” wasn’t quite enough.
     
  6. Jan 13, 2024
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
    Messages:
    226
    Slowly and not steadily making headway on the fuel injection. This is based on (and with the help of) Norcal69’s design.

    [​IMG]
    Starting to install home made crank triggers.


    [​IMG]
    Here is the steel portion of the crank sensor bracket.

    The O2 sensor bung has been welded and sensor installed in exhaust header.

    Next will be fuel lines and fuel pump.
     
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