'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Hmm. I have never "pumped". I just open the bleeder, helper does pedal down, close the bleeder, pedal up. It would be interesting to hear what others do.

 

Just dropped the windshield off for new glass install!! One more box ticked.

 

❤️❤️❤️

 

She looks good with her glasses on!!

I know I’m going to jinx myself, but I think I’m “done” with rough wiring too….for now. Might try and crank her over Sunday to verify my crank trigger setup is sending RPM signal to the Sniper.

Up behind the switches:

All those wires going left from the fuse panel are extra…so I’m going to leave about 1’ of them and cut and heat shrink each one then tie them up out of the way.

 

Beautiful Grant! What an amazing job! Pleasure following your build.

 

Cheers Roy! I’d be lying if I didn’t say I have an album of photos of your Jeep on my phone labeled “inspirational Tux reference photos”

 

It's really looking fantastic.

 

Really nice!

 

If you only run 1 joint on each end of the driveshaft, the angles at the yoke on the transfer case and the rear end need to be the same or you will get a vibration. It might be the angle of the picture but it looks like the rear is pointed up more.

 

If that is the case what does one do to fix it

 

Either match the angles by cutting the spring perches off and rotating the housing so the yoke angles are mostly equal. Instead of cutting, you can shim the spring perches with steel wedges that bolt to the spring pack using the center pin, but only if it is not too far off, say 4 degrees or less. I allow a degree less on the pinion for acceleration and the corresponding upward movement of the pinion. You could also use a double cardan joint at the transfer case end of the shaft (with a corresponding transfer case yoke) and point the pinion directly at the transfer case output.

 

I wouldn't worry about the front. And the rear will settle a lot after it gets weighed down and driven. You might end up needing degree shims in the rear. I assume the rear has the stock perches on the tubes? If so, I have run 2-1/2" springs on a stock 44 (with a 4 speed so the driveline was even shorter) needing only 3* shims to eliminate vibration.

 

It's beautiful, Grant - very nice work!

 

Cheers!

 

The rear is a stock D44, and the springs are 2.5” Rough Country.

Seems like I should look at shims then huh?

Like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wst-2054


How do I go about measuring the discrepancy between the two flanges to determine the amount of shim angle needed?

edit : here’s a picture. Is this a dumb question but is it possible that my friend who helped me put the new leaf springs on backwards?

 

If the fat part of the wedge is towards the rear i would say yes.

 

The above picture is looking from the right side towards the left side, so the fat part is to the front.

 

So you already have degree shims. They do look kind of fat. If there is vibration, you can use an angle finder on the pinion yoke and the transfer yoke to see the difference. Let it get loaded down and settled in before you do anything. And remember, it's a jeep, not Nascar.

 

When I used to drive this thing every day to work fourteen years ago across the Martis Valley when I got to about 35 miles an hour I thought I was going to die. I’ll be stoked if I can make it to 45. I’m building this thing to cruise around town and through the forest

 

Something isn't right, you should be fine doing 65 as long as your jeep has the power to push it there (I didn't look back if you had an f-head). As others mentioned, the angle on the transfer case should match the angle of the pinion, and make a parallelogram. Depending on the angles, you might need to remove or flip the wedge around so the fat end faces the rear.