Stuck Lugnut

Its because of the rotation of the wheel. Before rims were made to have a bit of spring to act as a kind of lock washer, the thought was that if you used left handed threads on the right side, they would never loosen. Thats what the jeep guys told me 22 years ago with my first 2a...They also told me that aluminum rims need to re torqued on a regular basis.

I check my lugs once or twice a year for loosening.

Almost invariably, an old junk jeep will have at least 2 broken studs on the right side axles. I always laugh.

When you press in new studs, the one that is a spinner will need to be welded on the inside. That weld may still break in my experience.

Good luck!

 

When lookinv at it im guessing

 

I got rid of all my LH wheel studs. I would always forget which side was which.

 

I still have them on the drivers rear of my 2a. thatll really stump somebody. Speaking of which. Can the drum be made to slide off without a hub puller or should i leave alone?

 

Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth continued into the 70's (LHT on left side of vehicle).
when you source new studs them make them with slightly oversized shanks to lock into the hub or drum.
Check your existing knurl (when you pop out a non spinning stud) and then the bore size of the spun, and unspun. With that info do the math by subtracting the unspun stud dia from the unspun hole. Take that number and apply it to the spun hole and order some studs and press them in. As some of yurs will be unspun don't be surprised if you end up with two different diameter shank and you may need to run a reamer through the spun hole to clean up or slightly oversize the bore for correct fitment. Don't mess around with loose studs. We all know that catchy song by Kenny Rogers about a loose-wheel.

 

My first car was a '62 Dodge Dart. Left hand lugs on one side. Fortunately there were still a lot of Mopars out there with them back then, so it was more of an annoyance than anything.

 

if your going to replace one might as well do them all
yep I remember LH lug studs / nuts

 

clearly, me too HAHAHAHAHAHAHH

I may have broken off those studs and laughed at myself!!!!

 

So, right hand thread on the right side, the leftys are on the wrong side

 

My 64 Tux had LH studs on the drivers side, until I changed to 66 V 6 axels. I had to find LH lugnuts for alloy wheels, then buy more RH nuts when I changed to the 3:73 axels. Just so you know you can get LH lugnuts from Mr. Lugnut on line. Amazon has them too. I had a loose stud on the rear of my Jeep, I used a Dremel tool to cut the head off, pulled the wheel off, pulled the hub off, welded the stud, used a pipe wrench to get the shank off, put it all back together, all good now.

 

All of us made that mistake once.. I know I cussed for a solid day before I got the hint to turn the other way..

 

Pretty much a Rite Of Passage.

 

Hopefully this is not off topic here, but since we are talking replacing lug studs...

I am rebuilding my rear axle on my 68 cj5 (Dana 44, tapered axle). Pretty sure the hubs/studs are original as they were swedged on and only 50k on the Jeep. Flaps and Dorman site list the Dorman 610-032 as replacement stud. Problem is, they are 1 3/8" long, mine are all 1 3/4" (1 7/8" OAL including the head). No real markings on my originals, just an "A" in the center of the stud head. Closest I can find is a Dorman 610-475. The 1 3/8" stud looks pretty stubby, hate to come up short on threads...especially running aluminum wheels where the hub area is a bit thicker.

Here are links to the two for reference...

Dorman Products - 610-032

Dorman Products - 610-475

 

I ran into the same basic problem when upgrading my Dana 30 to disc brakes and running aluminum wheels. I noted the problem here: www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/front-disc-brake-tutorial.116749/page-2 (post #33 & #35). If me, I would use the longer Dorman #610-475 lug bolt.

 

I had the same problem, I am running Ansen 15"x7" wheels, the centers are over 1" thick, making the wheel base 2" wider, I found 1.750" long mag lugnuts on Amazon.