Emergency (4 Way) Flasher Wiring 71 CJ5

Still working through the little stuff, I have a question about this circuit.
I've 3 or 4 wiring diagrams (TSM, Hanes, + 2 found on internet) all show the same. If I understand correctly there is unswitched positive 12v going to the X terminal on a two post flasher and the outfeed goes directly to the lamps via the existing lighting harness. It also appears the turn, brake and corner lights all flash.
Underdash wiring is very clean, only having original electric oil pressure gauge (Renegade II) replaced with a mechanical and the wires taped off.
Well, when the switch is pulled out the light in the handle glows bright and nothing happens with any lights. All the lights operate when I run their respective other circuits (running, turn, brake).
I can only assume that the switch is not functioning. I plan to jumper from the battery through fuse to the X terminal with the balance of wiring intact to test this. Is there anything else I should look at to isolate the cause?

 

Note that the warning flashers and indicators use two different two-terminal flasher relays. You should be able to switch the two relays and see if the problem follows a bad relay.

 

I bought a new relay and tested it's operation on a battery and spare 1157 bulb. Blink she did. Installed and yet no flashing. I did notice that the test light bulb seemed dim whan I tested the flasher when installed, I plan to clean the 12v source and fuse holder terminals to make sure it's getting enough continuity to get the flasher to trigger.
If it ends up being the switch I'm not sure if the stock assembly is available anywhere. Looked and could not find online may try to clean it and re-use.

 

The flasher relay needs a load to flash. There is a bimetal strip in the relay that heats and cools in response to the current, opening and closing the relay. No current, no flashing. The 4-ways switch is just a SPST switch as I recall, and the current goes through the turn signal switch in the column to activate the 4-ways. The switch should be easy to test. Just move along the circuit to see where it's open.

 

I've worked my way beyond that and have the switch hanging below the dash and opened up in all her glory. I plan to use some Deoxit and spring the metal contacts just a tad. As sanitary as the wiring is there is high likely hood it's oxidation/dry terminal grease. As I fiddled with the switch the light in the knob lost contact and moving things around brought it back to brilliance. Odd thing is the e switch does not have terminals, rather it's contacts are internal and run to the column harness.
High likelihood it's the switch contacts. That, and the 14amp fuse I popped when I lost grip on the alligator clip jumper from the battery and brushed the gear shift.

 

O.K. Everything appears to work. 2 front 2 rear all flash in unison. Seems the corner markers (fender sides) do not flash. There are only 3 contacts used in the switch and three wires coming out of switch and each goes to a 3 way junction 1 for both rear taillights, 1 each for the right and left front turn signals. The corner lights are simple running lights on when the headlight switch is in the running or headlight position only.
The repair of the Flareomatic 150Y148 switch was not difficult once it released from the dash hanging from the wires and was opened up. Time, and pressure of the contact tabs put a bow in the circuit board material that holds the wiring contacts. Both boards are easily removed. The top with the contacts and wires needs little attention save for cleaning. The bottom needs adjustment. I put a square shank screwdriver under a row of contact tabs (there are two rows of 4 tabs each) slide the screwdriver toward the rivets and slightly rotate to slightly raise all four tabs at the same time approximately 1/16", do the same on the second set of four tabs. doing so will slightly mis-align the contacts that will need to be re-aligned by slightly bending down the tip to insure the small dimple is square to the board these tabs are rivited to. Clean all the contact surfaces with de-oxit and a pencil eraser and clean, put a blob of grease where the index tab rides against the switch case, and reassemble. Once reassembled it's important to cut a small block of non conductive material heat resistant material. I used high temp plastic from a stereo chassis. This block needs to be carefully sized by cutting and sanding so that it can be inserted between the switch case and the board with the wiring contacts to take out some of the bend. Do this carefully so that the board does not break.
Test it before reattaching to the dash (the indicator bulb in the switch knob will not light until the switch is back in the dash (grounded). If all works you are good to go. If not check the contacts for alignment. I had to do this twice and also bent downward 3 tabs that are un-used in the switch.
I realize I should have taken pictures, but didn't.

 

I could be wrong, but couldn't the corner markers be wired across the front signal bulb parking and indicator lines? They would receive power one way and ground through the other filament (front indicators being a two filament bulb). End effect it lighting for parking, and blinking for turn/hazard.

 

Correct. However, the corner markers are running lights only and do not flash with turn signals. I think it could be re-wired with two filament bulbs and a wiring re-configuration.