Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Muzikp, Aug 11, 2017.
Are you sure that the right side transfer case mount is attached properly?
I like that idea, I've never really looked at them closely. I was going to stick the GoPro under there and see what I see.
It is bolted down very solid, but I've wondered if maybe it should have a rubber mount in it instead of just a super solid connection to the cross member?
I only say it because my '69 has severe shudder in reverse that would almost knock your teeth out. Both motor mounts and the transfercase side mount were sheared and the transmission mount was collapsed. Changing the mounts made the shuddering disappear. The motor mounts were the primary culprit because the problem went away when I changed those first. I did the transmission/transfercase mounts at a later date and didn't notice much difference.
These showed up yesterday. They look about perfect size but are still going to be a challenge to get them in
Can't wait to get these out of there
Here's how my Tcase is bolted to my cross member. Should it have some sort of rubber mount?
Here's my motor mounts, look fairly crusty but I don't see any damage.
I was going to just pull them out tomorrow and inspect them. Is there an easier way to tell if they are bad?
I would want some rubber/vibration isolator between the transfer case and cross member, unless the cross member has vibration isolator between the the frame mount
As James notes, you need a rubber mount on the transfercase tab. With 3 other rubber mounts allowing the engine to move and single mount bolted solid, you'll likely break the tab off the transfercase.
Your engine mounts look pretty fresh but double check where the rubber is bonded to the metal. The ones in my '71 we completely detached and gravity was the only thing holding the engine in place. You could see a crack between the rubber and the metal.
Those two piece mounts from the '71:
Thank you guys. I have a nice rubber mount that will work on Tcase and I'll pull motor mounts off tomorrow.
Check this out James.
Go to URL which Shows one style of mount Jeep used in the late '60's. A very common one. You are also missing the "cup" that is normally welded to the crossmember. I have a old crossmember you can have and than remove the cup from....see pic
It looks like it should have the 4cyl motor mount on the frame rail with a tab to the transfercase.
I'ld run without the torque arm bolt and see if the issue goes away.
Hi Jim, thanks for the offer. You are correct my cross member is missing that little cup. My cross member has been modified/reinforced to hold skid plates a little better than the stock one so I'm going to stick with mine and add a rubber mount somehow.
FWIW - some later CJs have a z-bracket that goes from the D18 'foot' to the inside of the passenger frame rail instead of the round rubber mount with cup on the cross-member. Lots of discussion around here at times as to when one mount was used vs the other...but either works. IIRC, look to the inside of the passenger frame rail - there might be a square-ish isolator mount there - but you'd need the z-bracket (or fab up something).
I added a rubber mount to the Tcase tab and it is definitely better, I'd even call it drivable.
On to my next issue. I couldn't fit both of these mufflers under the Jeep.
The passenger side was super close but ended up being 1" too long, driver side fit ok. So I went to FLAPS and bought a dual chamber muffler that was shorter. I installed the longer muffler on the driver side and shorter on the passenger side.
It's not much quieter at all and the tone of the exhaust is lousy, sounds like someone who is lactose intolerant at an ice cream party.
The bigger issue is the passenger side with the short muffler is running way way hotter than the other side. After a short drive around the block I crawled under and the difference was big. After just a few minutes I could hold my hand on the bigger muffler and the small muffler was still very hot and would burn me quick if I touched it. It's worth noting that the longer muffler is a straight thru design and the shorter one is one of those chambered things with dividers and such inside. Should I be concerned?
Thanks James. I don't have the frame rail mount so I'm assuming it was always mounted to the cross member. For now I'm happy with the results of adding the rubber mount between the tcase and cross member. Going to drive it like that for a while and see how the rubber holds up.
It seems like the transition may have happened with the T-14 transmission? My '68 had a T-86 from the factory and the doughnut mount. My '69 has a T-14 and the mount to frame rail.
Photo of said frame mount on my '71. The mount itself is an F134 motor mount:
My guess is the larger "straight through" one is packed with fiberglass around the through pipe. The chambered on is not so I would expect it to be hotter to the touch.
Interesting, that's really good info. My Jeep had an SM420 in it when I bought it so no telling what it originally had. The previous owner didn't have it bolted to cross member and it seemed to work fine. I think I'll try @Jw60 idea and see if it's even better.
That makes perfect sense. I like simple explanations like that. Heading out for a longer drive.
Ultimately I need to take this to a shop and come up with a better exhaust system. Maybe I can find round mufflers that are somewhere between 6 and 8" diameter and 22" long or less. Otherwise I'll name this Jeep Flatch, short for flatulence .
Was going to crawl under mine and get the photo, but figured you'd have one posted in no time....thanks.
I have my photo archive.
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