Low Rpm Knock/ping

Ok sounds good. They were changed in 2012 and probably only have 1000 miles since then due to other projects i was working on.

 

After seven years service, I would advise making sure the points are very clean - a light touch with very fine emery paper, then polished with clean white paper drawn through them. Then set the gap.

Also lightly grease the distributor cam to reduce wear on the heel.

Under the rotor, there may be a felt plug in the dist. shaft that gets a few drops of engine oil. While you are in there, you can see if the advance weights are free, and very lightly lubed.

 

Ditch the points get pertronix and throw those champion plugs out and get some Delco plugs. Pertronix eliminates the need for adjusting and changing points, and champion plugs are for a lawn mower or Harley.

 

Please educate me. Why would a sparkplug good enough for a Harley be inadequate for a Jeep?

 

At some point I would like to run a DUI setup and we can argue the finer points of different ignition setups at a later date. My goal this summer is to enjoy the jeep by driving it as much as possible. I have been picking off little projects here and there on the jeep which ultimately kept it off the road/trails and in the garage.

With that said, I too am curious on why Champion plugs are of lesser quality than AC Delco. I assumed that if I got the right heat range and specs, I was good.

 

I too have had problems with Champion plugs, on multiple occasiono.
Won't use them, even in a lawn mower !

 

Personal preferences and experiences. I really don't remember what I am running in mine. Some people swear by those new E-3 plugs. Some people just swear.

 

the only two things ive ever seen that actually run on a champion...

 

I was able to take the jeep for a quick drive today to see how the new timing was. (I didn't mess with the dwell or points yet)

It seemed to run great, didn't bog, backfire or ping when going uphill at a low RPM. I did notice that the idle was around 900 when i stopped and the fenderwells were hot to the touch, which may be normal since it was 93 and I am just paranoid while searching for symptoms.

 

One thing you should understand is that the timing changes when the dwell and/or point gap changes. Which is why we say to set the point gap/dwell and then set the timing. And 900 rpm idle is a good number. Some will say no on that. My Willys F134 is persnickety and just seems happier idling at 900 rather than 650 or 700 rpm.

 

On propane, my 57 will idle just above dying. With the solex, my 65 loves 900ish and idles very smooth. Really dislikes lower than that. My carters never seemed to run right.

 

I got my dwell meter in the mail, so i was finally able to set everything. The dwell was 17-18 degrees, so 12-13 degrees off. When I adjusted that, it had the timing all wrong. I had this weird feeling that someone told me dwell has to be set before timing...

Jokes aside, I got the timing set to 29.7 degrees (the meter had it floating between 29.5 and 29.7 degrees with most the time at 29.7). I figured that was close enough to 30 and my adjustments were not very microscopic, so I left it there. I then set the timing to 5-6 degrees advance. I also adjusted the idle slightly (before I did timing) and it is seems comfortable at 700 rpms. I can't believe tune-up specs have it at 550, but 900 seemed a little high.

Setting the dwell eliminated that "jump" I was talking about when timing before.

I didn't have a chance to take it for a spin, but will in the next few days. Thanks again everyone for the advice, help, and guidance!