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CJ3B Beastie

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    While stopping to look at what needed to be done at the rear end, I decided to pull the rear diff cover to check on the internals and make sure there is no metal bits floating around in there.

    Oil looked very clean considering it has sat for who knows how many years and no obvious problems visible.
    No sign of wear spots on the gears at all, no noises or grinding felt when turning it and the grease nipples filled the outer bearings out at the hubs, so maybe just a new pinion seal and see how it behaves first.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
  2. Sep 15, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    After that good news I decided to pull the front knuckles off and get ready to strip crud off and clean for painting.

    Now I am no expert but I don't think the king pin bearings are supposed to look like that.

    [​IMG]

    Well at least 2 off them had all the rollers intact. :lol:

    Oh well, good news, bad news.

    But it's interesting that there was no outwards sign that the bearings were so bad because I had checked for knuckle movement before I pulled the tyres off.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  3. Sep 15, 2017
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

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    If you are going to use a stock rear tank, you might have fitment issues by removing 2 inches of the frame. could be interference with the back axle with the suspension cycling.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  4. Sep 15, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Not a problem, it will be a custom made tank Rob.
    Same with the under seat one.

    A lot of items were missing when I purchased this project.

    fuel tank
    front fenders
    hood
    windscreen frame
    tailgate
    seats

    I plan on making the fuel tanks from aluminium
    Fenders, windscreen frame and hood will also be aluminium.
    Hood will be a square hollow tube frame to make it stiff then sheeted.

    Tail gate will also be alloy probably, it all helps to save weight.

    Seats for the CJ5 I already did are out of a Subaru and are really comfy so might go with something similar in the 3B.


    I am considering linking the under seat and the rear tank with a 1 & 1/4" hose lines top and bottom to effectively become a large capacity single tank, so the under seat one drains to the lower chassis one, where the fuel pick up is.

    Not sure how well the link between the 2 tanks would hold up without leaking though so may end up going with 2 separate tanks and a switching system of some sort.
     
    Walt Couch likes this.
  5. Sep 15, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    They always look like that:rofl::D:rofl::rofl:
     
  6. Sep 15, 2017
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    That is how I made my 3B hood. Used plywood templates and wood stringers to mock it up.
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Sep 16, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Oh yeah, that's awesome.

    That is very similar to what I am intending to do duffer.

    Even down to using some heavier duty hinges instead of the original piano hinge and storing tools and spares under there.

    What is that cylindrical item left of the axe, I can't pick what it is?

    from the left is;
    jack handle,, shovel, jack, ?? , axe yes?

    Anything else under there?
     
  8. Sep 16, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    47v6, no worries then, i will put the bearings back in and call it good.(y):D

    Nah, it's only money and this is one of those essential items to make it safe, so no short cuts.


    This started of just going to be an el cheapo fix up project using parts on hand or whatever I could make fit, cheap.

    But I decided to do it up better than the first jeep so I can keep this one and enjoy it.

    I will sell off the cj5 once this beastie is nearly ready
     
  9. Sep 16, 2017
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    The tube was for the jerry can spout. But since I welded up the 25 gal rear tank, those cans have not been needed and it currently holds about a pound of 6011 & 6013 welding rod.
     
  10. Sep 16, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Gotcha.
    Do you have a build thread duffer?

    Would love to see more of your 3B.
     
  11. Sep 18, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Got the tie rod flip done.
    [​IMG]


    Then pulled the axles and springs off to start doing the welds and repairs to the chassis.
    Or at least tried to, had to cut the U bolts in the end.
    Just a little bit dodgey, so new U bolts added to the shopping list.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sep 18, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    [​IMG]

    Chassis has a few cracks in places.

    At the front, the spring hangers where the shackles mount and at the rear, where the spring fixed point is.

    So I extended the boxing at the front to eliminate the flex point and the rear mounts boxing will be repaired and re welded with a better "returns" so it is less of a fatigue point.

    Should be good for another 60 years then.

    [​IMG]

    The blue coloured cross member is a engineer's addition to ensure the mount for the steering box can't flex, plus it will also become the front member for the mounting of the winch.
     
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  13. Sep 18, 2017
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Never put together a build thread. Probably because my B has always been a "work in progress" over 45 years now. There is some info here: 1955 Jeep Gets Hot Rod Mods on CJ3B.info

    A few thoughts on your frame: Interesting transfercase cross member but that would appear to comprise clearance without any real benefit. I would rebuild it as "shallow as possible if your intent is to use the Jeep off-road. The main front cross member is obviously home brew. I replaced my stock version also but "dropped" it so I could install a larger radiator when I originally put it together in the 70's. I switched to a cross flow a couple years later and used that extra space for the engine oil cooler. And as to your blue front cross member, I really like a low winch mounting which that will prevent. As an alternative, I fully boxed the front bumper and added a web behind it flush with the bottom. It is fully welded to the frame. The frame horns are also fully boxed inside with an additional 1/4" plate outside that extends past the spring hangers. The sector box is mounted to a 1/2 plate welded on the inside.

    I would also box the rest of the frame while you have the unhindered opportunity. Makes quite a difference strength wise and, at least for me, completely eliminated any cracking. IMO the old saw about frame flex be advantageous off road is just bunk. Way better to use the suspension.
     
  14. Sep 18, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    It is the original transmission cross member so haven't actually lost any clearance.
    I am also working with a transfer case that fits pretty nicely on that setup and if I tried to lift the cross member I would start to to see it interfering with the front driveshaft path.

    The front cross member is also the original. This chassis started life as a CJ5 but it also had the mod to be RHD here in Australia after it was imported.

    There was a stub of pipe around 4 inches long immediately behind that member that supported the original steering arm, that pipe appeared to have been similar to the cj3B chassis pipe cross member, as well as matching evidence of the pipe at one point crossing to the other side of the chassis and being cut out after importation with the box shaped cross member being added at that point in time.

    I did look at ways of getting the winch down as much as possible but I will be going with a bolt on front bumper, and as that blue member is only 2 1/2 inches high I didn't think I would gain much in winch pulling power / geometry, plus a straight across member gives maximum strength so the engineers stays happy.
    I have a 12000 lb winch ready to go into this so I wont run out of power.


    I am thinking of boxing the frame.
    It would help resist future cracking.
     
  15. Oct 17, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Veradale, WA
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    Anything new to report? :watch:
     
  16. Oct 20, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Been tied up with working ITLKSEZ.
    Gotta pay for all these parts I have been ordering from the US some how.:D


    But I have managed to get the chassis strapped on the top and bottom flanges which reduced the free twisting of the chassis by approx 50%.
    Decided to not box it in completely but wanted to do something to strengthen the small cracks that were repaired around the spring hangers.
    Also got the extra body mount locations attached to the cj5 frame for the 3B body to hopefully line up.
    [​IMG]

    Then in between jobs that had to be done I managed to get the transmission cleaned of crud and tidied up and put some paint on it and on the axles.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Have lately been working away from home building cattle yards out in the bush.
    But, my diesel welder decided to throw the bearing that supports the generator shaft which means the armature has clipped the casing and destroyed one side of the wound field.
    So have been trying to get that sorted so I can be back on the job next week.
     
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  17. Nov 3, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    OK, today was a big day.
    The engine ran.

    Over the last week or so I fixed up the springs getting ready to start putting things back together.

    Started like this
    [​IMG]

    Then split them and wire wheel cleaned each leaf before reassemble with a thin film of oil between each leaf, new centre bolt and a coat of black paint to the outside.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Yeah, pretty boring stuff.
     
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  18. Nov 3, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    But then I cleaned up the chassis and gave it the paint treatment as well.

    [​IMG]

    So it's just sitting there, lookin all spiffy and daring me to put the motor in place.

    [​IMG]

    Well that just snowballed into getting the engine ready to turnover now that it is securely held in place.

    So off to get a battery and dig out the fuel filter and some hosing and a juice bottle for a temporary fuel tank.
    Hook the fuel side up and a little bush wiring of the fuel cut off solenoid and a simple contact for the starter and it's ready to go.
    Or not.

    The timing appears to be out a long way as it had no suction at the air intake but was expelling air and puffs of smoke.
    Also managed to burn out the brand new glow plugs I had put in after I got this engine a few months ago by forgetting they are only 5V rated and jamming 12V into them trying to get the engine firing.
    Moron.

    So off to the parts store again.
    Decided to get some higher rated glow plugs to eliminate the voltage reduction controller etc from the equation.
    I didn't have the wiring or controller yet anyway so made the executive decision to K.I.S.S. and make it a straight out 12V glow system
    The plugs I eventually found are rated 11V but needed turning in the lathe to remove the thread length I didn't need and adding a little bit of thread under the nut so they fit this engine.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Nov 3, 2017
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
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    Then pulled apart the timing belt and reset the timing to where it should be.

    A few times turning over to get the fuel flowing to the injectors and a few grumbles and rumbles and almost starts.

    Then, a little spurt of electricity to the glow plugs and off it went with a belch of smoke that cleared straight away.
    Ran it for around a minute then turned it off to set the throttle position to a idle speed that works and then started her up again, this time no glow required.


    Hope this video works.


    So then the cooling system had to get setup to prevent overheating so back down to the parts store and search for some hoses that will be close to the shape needed to get to the radiator. Got pretty lucky there, so now it has a radiator temporarily in place as well

    The bad news, there is a bad rattling noise in the gearbox / transfer case so that is going to be pulled apart now to figure out whats going on.

    FIL thinks it might just be because there is no load on the gears and they are bouncing around.
    It does quieten down to nearly no noise with some throttle bringing the revs up.

    First step was pulling the transfer case and finding 2 slightly notchy feeling bearings at the front output so they are first candidate for replacement.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2017
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  20. Nov 3, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Veradale, WA
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    That is so cool.
     
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