Throwout Bearing

Had to pull my t90 this morning to fix some 2nd gear syncro issues. Falling out of 2nd gear on deceleration. Probably need a synchronizer hub and brass bushing inside the gear.
The problem that I didn't know about was the throwout bearing has the flange broke off of it that pulls the bearing away from clutch fingers. Now a little history. It started life with a f134 but I converted to 225 oddfire, now mated to the original t90 with long input shaft. used a LUK clutch with a Federal Mogul 1697-c throwout bearing. I bought the pivot arm (actuator) from Walcks I think for v6.
What did I do wrong guys? bearing length was right, pivot arm seems possibly a little short between pivot and bearing fork. maybe this is the problem. I'm kinda stumped. any help much appreciated
PS is it necessary to use the oil collector in the t90?

 

T90 oil collector is not required.
What's actually broken ?
The rear flange of the bearing carrier sleeve ?

 

the flange on the throwout bearing. yea I guess you would call it a sleeve.
I ordered the adjustable TO bearing and fork (actuator) RAV6 from Novak today and hope that will take care of my problem. I don't understand why it broke

 

Yeah It sure sounds to me like like you had the correct release bearing and carrier installed.
You use the standard release lever ? (fork) # 1378486

 

not sure about the p/n on the fork. I really need to get me a parts book

 

Standard fork should look like this repop:
JEEP 66-71 WITH THE 225 DAUNTLESS V6 ENGINE CLUTCH THROWOUT FORK T14 T86 RELEASE | eBay

 

I had this happen when the t/o bearing wasn't positioned properly on the fork. (or so I believe)
Broke the first time I depressed the clutch pedal.
Does yours look like this ?

 

No help on your release bearing, but with your jumping out of second gear, be sure to check your pilot bushing/bearing in the back of the crankshaft. Especially with the long shaft you used for the conversion, you need to be sure the pilot bearing is properly supporting the nose of the input shaft, and without any slop from a worn bushing. I have come across this issue more than a few times.
Also, with things apart, be sure and check the loose roller bearings in the input (main drive) shaft where the mainshaft rides in them. If anything is out of tolerance, this will cause it to jump out of 2nd on decel.
-Donny

 

This break makes no since. The hard pressure is on the arm going rear-ward pushing the bearing forward to release the clutch. The return spring that makes the t-bearing go back is pretty light in comparison.. The break is on the pull back which should have very little resistance.

 

looks like a break from hitting it with input shaft . when installing transmission

 

I would certainly believe this to be the most logical answer.

 

i'm really at a loss for an explanation. It broke all the way around.

 

I tried this also, put the input shaft through the clutch and into the pilot bushing. it was actually what I considered a good fit.
sure do appreciate all you guys thinking on this

 

I would say that is a manufacturing defect . to break like that . did part have a brand name

 

Federal Mogul!

 

I'll guess that the pivot ball is out of adjustment therefore causing too much release fork angle.
Excess angle of the fork could easily break the rear flange off the carrier sleeve.

 

Even if the T/O arm was at an incorrect angle, it doesnt seem to me that the housing would break before anything else. Wow. Bad. Federal Mogul does sometimes make defective parts...

 

Leverage is a powerful tool....
If the fork angle was in excess the thing that could break would be clutch control system
That means that cable, or the chain or the linkage to the lever/ tube assembly.
Otherwise it pretty muck has to break the release fork or carrier sleeve.
I certainly would never expect the bellhousing to break at the pivot ball.

 

Yes it is

 

Really ?