brake adjusting eccentric removal

Hi all, two quick (and hopefully easy) questions. I'm overhauling my brake system and am trying to replace the adjusting eccentrics on a '59 CJ5 with 9 inch brakes. I can't seem to find any instructions for removing the eccentric, but I'm assuming simply remove the lock nut and slide out the eccentric? Problem is, the lock nut on the eccentric seems to be rusted tight onto the eccentric threads (hence why I'm replacing it). Any tips on removing/loosening it?
Also, any tips on how to remove the axle nut cap? Is it just a matter of prying it off? I tried lightly prying with a screwdriver but it just bent a little. Seems to be on tight.

Appreciate the help.

 

Dunno about the axle nut caps on a Jeep, but on the thousands of tralier bearings I've packed over the years, I just use a small hammer, and tap them about a little, moving side to side, and they come right off, just tap the sides lightly, working your way around.

 

I've been spraying it with PB blaster periodically since yesterday, and tried the vice grips as well...no dice, yet. Hopefully it'll break loose, as there really isn't a good angle to saw it off without damaging something else.

 

Have you tried heating he nut up? If you can get it red hot you can spin it off while it is hot.

 

That might work. Or it might weld the parts together. DAMHIK.

I'd suggest you don't spin the nut while it is red.

 

Thanks for the help everyone...I was able to finally get them off by working with the wrench and vice grips some more, then using the hammer drill from the nut side while holding onto the cam side with the vice grips. Took a while but ultimately successful.

 

Petel if you don't spin it off while it is hot, and expanded, it will shrink when it cools and be harder to get off. I have used this method a lot of times, and more often than not it works for me. Just my $.o2 worth.

 

Whatever works for you is fine by me!

I was just sharing an experience I once had - a red hot nut turned slightly, and then became locked forever. I suspect it was a weld similar to a blacksmith's hammer-weld of two pieces at red heat.

I certainly will use heat (then oil on the hot metal) and turning it while hot as you suggest - but I now do it at something less than "red-hot."

 

I would love to see a Blacksmith hammer weld. I have a tire off a wagon wheel for yard art, I always wondered how they done that, weld by beating it to fuse it into one piece, then shrinking it onto a wooden wheel.

 

Always wanted to try it myself.

I believe it needs to be wrought iron to work, at sparkling orange-red heat using a flux such as borax. Then lap and hit together with a BFH.

Wagon tires ought to be wrought iron - I collect them for that reason, since new wrought iron is very scarce.