A Clean Frame and what Paint?

parts back from the blaster... clean and needing work. Take a peek. Glad I stuck these inside, it's now raining...

I noticed that a couple spring hangers are in bad shape, this is the worst one... thoughts?

















pitting still exists:

 

wear clean gloves when you move it or you will have rusty hand prints. the welder at the factory was totally drunk that day..

 

Wondering if I should replace the hangers while I have this thing stripped.

 

That sure looks nice. That grill mount needs a little more welding! Your spring hanger can be MIG'ed and ground pretty easy. Time for some good paint.
-Donny

 

I brush coated with aluminum Rustoleum brand. That is a tight sealing, full color base. So little build in the paint layer that it stays longer. Grey sanding primer, "NAVY" GREY ENAMEL ONE COAT TWO COATS THREE COATS RESPECTIVELY Gray shows rust BEFORE black. I submerged the front end up above the radiator cross member in all three paints.
Sadly that neighbors tree died that we hoisted the frame from. NO I did not kill the tree. A fungus killed it years later. He had 5 cords of wood split from it.

 

Don, Powder coating isn't a good option for anything that you may have to re-weld again in the future......

Dane,
Replace the hangers that are bad.........take an angle grinder and V-out all of that bubble gum weld that is doing nothing and re-weld all those joints.........the hangers will break again at that flange unless you do a brace there or box that portion of the chassis in.........here I have taken a Rectangular tube and cut off one side and also added a weep hole in the bottom for drainage.......no more issue with that flange flexing.......In that picture I also fixed a little crack.
.

 

May be a mod can move this to Builds and Fab... It has a bit of decent info. I'll keep it running as I fix and brace.

 

Thanks.

 

Frame and springs was $250 and I had the gas tank skid and transfer skid plate powder coated as part of that cost.

I can take frame back when done and he will powder coat it for another $200 unless I want to paint it. Add another $100 if I prime it to keep it from flashing, I'm thinking on that one.

We'd talked and the custom bumpers I'm planning (2x4 cross members with hitch mounts and pull tabs) will be $100 each to blast and powder coat.

That includes pre-baking before powder is applied and baked as a prep and clean step

For me, I'd already spent hours, 12 may be, power washing, grinding, wire wheeling to get not far at all.

My mind, money spent well. Reduces the wire sheds from the angle grinder sticking into my skin by an order of magnitude. Became readily worth every penny as the last time I had wires stuck in my arms, legs thru my jeans, and I found wires stuck in my shorts too close to the boys for any comfort that I wanted to do that for hours more...

 

When you put it that way, the 250 was money well spent.

 

I've had everything from truck cabs to jeep frames to my whole equipment trailer dipped at the galvanizer. I highly recommend galvanize, although you should have all your frame mods complete first. It will hold up better than any kind of paint.

 

Those dang wires go everywhere. Though I feel the knotted brushes in an electric grinder don't come apart so much.

Sorry if this is something you don't want to hear, but those pits are still dark. To me, that means that there is still rust in them. I would be tempted to do something about that before I sealed the frame with epoxy. Or I might just avert my eyes and paint the thing.

Looking at a few conversations online, I think the consensus is a little flash rust is not such a problem. Scuff it with a red Scotch Brite and shoot it. Thinking about it more, I'd likely fix the structural problems, scuff it and paint it with SPI black epoxy. And move on. It's take nearly 50 years of weathering and travel to get to this point ...

BTW the factory chassis welds on Jeeps are often unbelievably sloppy, as you have seen.

 

POR 15 has a product "Prep & Ready", it is a rust remover and paint prep. It is a blue liquid that dries clear, I spray that on all my bare metal and there is no flash rust.

 

Hot dip galvy vote here. That's a nice clean frame. Would take that melty goodness very well!!!!

 

late this evening, I drug the frame out of the garage. I got the angle grinder and my drill. I removed the ross mount from the cross member.

I fiddled around with the mig, it was dark out ... and I'd forgotten that I had .025 wire in the machine... doesn't hold enough heat for frame work, tomorrow, I'll grind down and hit it with some larger wire to clean up the mess I made. I found you can make miniature snowmen with that thin stuff tho...

 

Black epoxy primer and single stage urethane is working good for me, still holding up after 12 years or so. I am on sand roads with dust control brine on them. I painted my Jeeps interior and under body after a complete blasting, with Chassis Coat with a brush, it dries shinny and smooth. It seems really tough, has not worn through in the floor where I scrub it with sand on my shoes. It is hard to paint under the cowl with a spray gun after blasting, it is a lot easier to turn it upside down and brush it. I did the same thing to my fenders, painted them underneath with Chassis Coat and a brush before painting the out side with single stage urethane, then sprayed them with rubberized undercoat to keep rocks from dinging my fenders from the bottom up. Just something to consider.