2x4 frame questions

My '71 rear tank has mounting brackets at each rear-most corner and one center bracket at the front of the tank. The tank itself has holes in the flanged area, where the top and bottom halves are joined, to put the mounting bolts through. I don't have a picture of this. maybe someone else does. This assumes you'll be using a factory design tank. I think i would buy the tank first, then build accordingly. You could raise the tank a bit for added ground clearance, perhaps though, this may require raising the rear floor pan, depending on how high you go. My factory skid plate is a nice like 1/4" thick piece. Maybe you could find one of those somewhere or make your own. it's been plenty stout.

 

I think this is a good idea. i was looking at 15 and 20 gallon tanks from 76 or so onward. I want as much factory stuff, at least SOMEONES factory, as possible for replaceability. they are only like 130 bucks new. seller on C/L wanted 100 bucks used. I think I have to wait a week or 2 before i buy one because presently i feel very guilty about exploding my jeep budget every month.

 

See: http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?115268-Rear-mount-tank

 

you're making it very difficult for me to think about any budget at all. Its killing me.

 

When my 1/2 ton Ford (Found On Road Dead) pickup died I tried to push it off the road.
It was heavy and I could hardly BUDGE IT.
So I just sold it.

My Willys does not weigh very much.
I have no trouble pushing my Willys .
It is easy to BUDGE IT.

Get a long pry bar if you need help trying to BUDGE IT.

 

Swinging pedal thread here.
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?90354-swing-pedals

 

I like the 84-01 Cherokee plan. Parts store parts easily available. No special orders.

 

yes, i agree but my search dint come up with anything but YJ pedal assemblies. I wonder if they are the same? The YJ assemblies come with provision for hydraulic clutch. I will be doing that because it will be way easier than locating or fabbing a linkage assembly or a cable provision. they are as cheap as 50 bucks shipped on fleabay.

 

Why didn't anybody suggest using a postal jeep frame? It's nearly a bolt in under a Flatty..... just another option that's better than any of the other frames aside from a custom built one.

 

Its been suggested to others in some other threads. i looked. there aren't any local. I STILL would have to cut it apart to give me the length I want. I also have 4" lift YJ springs that make it so that i have to move the spring mounts around too. I have thought about doing this for several years, especially after replacing a couple pieces of rusted out frame. At this point for 200 bucks in material, I am all about making my own. I also WANT to do it. I don't want the easy fix, I want the one that teaches me something. I really like welding new nice metal together. I really hate welding rusty junk together.

 

3/16 wall is overkill. This is 3/16 wall. Its heavy. Its 24 feet long. Believe it or not, it is made in USA. 212.00 inc tax for both. Its in my basement now. I have house projects that will consume my time for the next several weeks. When i start to build I will make a new thread documenting it.

this is exciting!

 

You must have a long basement.

 

I would agree if you were building a race car......., but .188 wall for a Jeep is perfect...........most if not all of the aftermarket suspension mounts and tabs are made from either .188 or .250 material and although I build my own mounts and tabs I would still never skimp on thickness in this type of application........much easier to weld a like thickness to each other........the difference is only 2 lbs a foot, If you ever wheel that thing hard it will stand up to the abuse far better than .120 wall.

 

I tell you, looking at and carrying a 24 foot stick of that stuff and thinking about an old jeep frame.. the jeep frame in comparison is made out of tin can... The thickness of this tube could be reduced if I used CrMo and in return the thickness of my wallet would surely be reduced as well. When i start to weld this thing up I will be VERY happy about the thicker wall tubing for sure. So much easier to weld thicker stuff.

I am actually looking to buy spring hangers. around 40 bucks set isn't too bad. ruff stuff and chassis unlimited look like good products. body mounts I will make for sure.

my basement shop is the full length and width of my house.

 

My frame on my Jeep as been custom built with 3/16" wall tubing, i've been wheeling for 2 year (100 trail done) never had any twist or nothing i love it not. As for road handling the difference is huge, way better than before when my frame use to twist when i was turning.

 

Interesting...........No question , just about anything can happen to any vehicle when the collective mass of the collision energy remains unknown until after the event.

I sandwich the cage down tube plates , main hoop and rear braces between the body sheet metal panel above and the added chassis mount below using the same thickness and durometer reading High Energy poly mounts at that point of contact under the body that would be consistent with the regular body mounts elsewhere........cage and body now move and react in the same moment.

Perhaps not quite a direct contact to the frame , but with the almost 98% memory factor of the HYPER-FLEX™ Performance Polyurethane Body Mount Bushings it is about as near as one could reasonably expect and still flex.

 

Terry and Chuck, could you guys post a picture of one of your mounts?

If I ever tie my cage in to the frame, I was considering something like I think Terry is describing, sort of, I think. I was thinking a square plate above and below the tub sheet metal, a thinnish rubber mount/bushing between the underside of the floor and the plate on the bottom tube and then, four bolts squeezing it all together. I would do it differently for a dedicated trail rig but, I'm thinking about a street driven JEEP at this point.