Roll bar dimensions?

Im going to start a search for a roll bar that will fit inside my Meyers hardtop.
Can someone get me some dimension of their bars? The jeep is 62 CJ5.

Thanks

 

OD , I think trying to compare other CJ roll bar dimension's with a similar top as yours would be at best very confusing due to all the variables possible in choices and taste..........You know what you have now...If your just going to do a Hoop behind the drivers head attached to the top of the wheel tub that should be pretty easy to find a bar that will fit........if your going with front down tubes they will get added later anyway...........the only critical measurement would be the distance from the top of the tub where it mounts , to your inside roof line and perhaps the size of the radius that's used to make that turn would also be good to know to clear your top..........the distance between the tubs that most of these guys use for building a roll bar for this era , along with where they mount got pretty well established many years ago on these early CJ's and still remains pretty consistent to this day..........

 

The only real problem I see is . most of these aftermarket roll (sport) bars are no longer manufactured for the early CJ's . you know as time changes. parts that don't sell anymore . are sold till existing stock is gone , and I am sure this happen years ago .most likely your going to have to build from scratch . now I could be wrong . but I tried to find one and couldn't , only seen one for early and it was a bolt together .http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/rock-hard-parts-ultimate-sports-cage-jeep-1955-1975-p-6341.html . I do have a meyers top and a roll cage , but all this was done years ago . before the internet . when you had to look in a book at parts counter

 

Places like this has kits for early.......CJ's

http://extremecustomparts.com/c-690...3-cj6-cj8-willys-roll-bar-roll-cage-kits.html

 

These are good prices. The bender set up is going to cost 600 bucks minimum. HREW is the material DOM is a 300$ upgrade. Do you guys think its worth it?

 

Depends on how much you like your Head?
HREW is a little weaker than DOM due to it's process and welded seam. If it is just a casual use 4-wheeler the HREW will work.........for more extreme use the need to go to DOM or even 4130 Chro-Moly should be considered............It's not an easy choice since one never really knows how much protection is needed until after the event.

 

This I understand. hind sight is 20/20 and if you're dead.. wellll. I used DOM to make my driveshafts. Its really nice stuff. CrMo is not so nice to work with. It requires a bit more expertise and thick wall stuff needs to be annealed or it weakens around the weld. I TIG welded a bike frame out of .030 wall stuff. It was really difficult for me. Made me a much better Tig welder though.

 

We don't use much thick wall CrMo .....average would be .083 to .100 on a 1.750 cage.........The design of the cage is far more important than wall thickness although they both go together at some point in the design.
The theory behind annealing a welded joint holds true for just about any welded joint........After 40 years of racing I am yet to see anyone stick a tube chassis or parts thereof in a heat treat oven to normalize them.........some guys do take an open flame torch and heat the joint out a few inches from the weld zone, some even plug the chassis and pump argon into the tubing to keep the weld zone clean inside.........I have read numerous articles on the subject of Ductility of weld joints and found as others have that using a 309 stainless Tig rod while welding CrMo as opposed to say any of the Oxy 70 series rods have found that the stainless has a higher resistance to cracking either at the weld or beyond the joint when the fixture is being subjected to high levels of flex that one would normally see in a chassis.

 

I grew up around guys who raced. One of the family friends used to fab modified race car tube chassis for a living. He never had an oven to stuff the entire tube chassis in, so when i read about the annealing aspect of welding CrMo, I wondered about that.

I have also read that using 309 or any other stainless filler rod is contraindicated with CrMo. The reasoning behind that was stated as there was ductility performance problems. I like to use stainless rod because there is an absence of rust contamination leading to porosity that can happen if your rod has been hanging out in the basement for a while.

What it comes down to is that what I have read may not actually exist in real life. I have no formal welding training, just my own limited experience. I agree that DOM is better than HREW just because its a nicer more uniform material that will make a better product for the ease of fit up. Fit up generally is the key to any good weld.

One thing about stainless is the problem of sugaring. Filling the tubes of a roll bar with argon is a nice way to make sure the back of the weld does not have porosity. On stainless this is a real problem. If I could always have shielding gas on the backside of a stainless project, it would eliminate that. I can only imagine that the weld on CrMo would be that much better with that ability. You would have to keep the pressure real low or it would blow the weld puddle back out on to you though. Gee never had that happen closing some tube...

 

Oh oh... welding discussion on this forum are like oil thread on other forums that I have been.

I'm not a welder so its all good and interesting to me. One of these days I'll learn that skill even if it's only for sheet metal work.

 

There's quite a bit of room inside the meyer tops for roll bars/cages. More room than a soft top allows for. Almost anything pre-fabbed would be designed around the soft top, so you should be safe.

 

someone here posted early roll bar for sale . might have been a while . but you could post WTB in the classifieds section

 

Thanks everyone. I found a old one for sale here locally, just need to pick it up.
It came out of a '54 that was used as a forestry vehicle back in the day. Looks pretty sturdy.

 

Hey guys, did the M38A1's have the ribs that run along the top of the rear fender wells like the CJ5 has? This set-up will fit in tight but will sit on the rib or indent that runs the length of the fender well, not sure I want to do that. Thanks