Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

I am more interested to do a shackle reversal than go YJ conversion if using an OEM frame and that works well with the skinny stiff springs ....rich M did a very nice set on his. Not sure I have the time to mess with that given the circumstances, and after taking a bit of a look, I am not sure if one can mount the LF shackle in the rear given the Ross box and MC..... obviously the earliest cj5s and the m38a1 did this, so maybe there is room, but guessing some of that work has to be done with most of that stuff removed.

Honestly, for YJ style, i think the best solution is a TDK frame that is fully boxed and better able to handle the wider springs mounts of something like a YJ, and they can also set it up reverse shackle. Although soft YJ springs and reverse shackle could be too much for decent road handling?

 

Agreed....the shackle reversal is also along this line with allowing a little easier spring flex, and keeps things a bit less complicated, more original. Plus, with shackle reversal, it's only the front, no change to rear. I REALLY liked Rich's new set up in Colo and was thinking it was the right solution for me.... probably can't deal with it under these circumstances, but after I get the driver hanger off and cracks welded, I am definitely going to take a minute to look at the reversal a bit more. Obviously would have to cut the front shackle hangers off and replace with the longer spring hangers needed for the front - not sure where I could get those. Not sure I fully understand how the shackle pivot gets mounted through the frame at the back end.....so while unlikely, it doesn't seem impossible. I just know that once I get this back together, I probably won't want to redo it, so if I am going SR, this is the time to do it.

 

Thanks, i think I should be good....jeep peep is sending me some frame sections and some hangers. But I was thinking of stopping by today or tomorrow to drop off the knuckle tool....I need to run into town for some stuff.

 

yup....as much as that frame flex sometimes helps overcome the flex limitations of the narrow, inboarded stiff springs (and not saying it was intentionally designed that way, just the reality).....it really does come at a cost of long term frame fatigue and damage. Kind of makes me hesitant to make too many upgrades to this frame now, as I kind of am worried that its only going to get worse. But that also means, if you go with something like a TDK frame - fully boxed etc - then you will loose some flex and articulation and redesigning the suspension to make up for that is needed - and yes, better to flex heck out of the suspension than flex the frame.....

As a side note (tired of eating metal dust from cutting and grinding)....did a little research on shackle reversals for early CJs (meaning using 1.75" springs), and there aren't many obvious options. TDK has these, but not sure if they are for OEM narrow springs.....
https://throttledownkustoms.com/product/cj-shackle-reversal-kit/

This is a CPT kit possibly more focused on IH, but says it can be made to work with 1.75" springs - looks like you use some bushing spacers on each side of the spring eye etc.....
https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/stor...jdwZQiXkAoslQDX3mfujI3DX2gbTU_kRoCfAAQAvD_BwE
or maybe just order the front spring hanger brackets - wonder what the length of those are?:
https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/CPT-RS-FANG.html

I am still a bit unclear how the shackle get mounted through the frame at the back of the leaf spring.....is it just sleeve welded through the boxed frame and and typical spring eye bushing pressed in?

 

there is definitely some drawbacks to shackle reversals, but there are also some advantages.....like most things, usage determines which trade-offs are worth making.

unless you can get asymmetrical springs, there isn't much of a way to push the front the spring mount forward, so that moves the front axle rearward....shortening the wheelbase and creating fender clearance issues. I think the old Holbrook springs were asymmetrical - that would work well IMO, but I'd have to run them with standard front shackle as I have no room to mount a shackle in the frame that far rearward (the MC and through the floor pedal cross-shaft etc all get in the way).

in theory (which is my specialty - as opposed to reality), the longer spring hangers on the front replace the shackle length, and the by mounting the shackle in the frame, you mostly keep the relative position of the leaf the same as it was. Its actually probably good to try and push the front mount as far forward as possible and move the axle a smidge forward (maybe and inch?) as when the spring compresses with the reversal, the axle moves back instead of forward. Of course, when at full droop, the axle will move forward, and that could create an issue with driveshaft length....

 

So what did the m38a1 front spring hangers look like? They have to be longer than the short shackle hanger - just wondering how much longer? Those long spring hangers aren't just around everywhere - thus my interest in the TDK or CPT products.....have to compare dimensions. The through the frame mount shackle mount is basically drill appropriate hole, weld in sleeve, install bushings.....sounds easy enough

 

yes! That is exactly what I am wondering....