Clutch fork & linkage question

getting transmission out , probably bound up on clutch plate . raise and lower engine till you get things inline again, now this is just my opinion . I prefer to install transmissions with the bell housing already bolted to transmission , because it a lot easier not to deal with throw out bearing and clutch fork .and I also use the cut of bolts to line things up . made my own transmission holder for floor jack . that's a lot of weight just balancing on a floor jack saddle .here's a post I did a few months back about my stuck clutch , look at bell housing you'll see the alignment studs
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?107223-Stuck-Clutch&highlight=stuck+clutch

 

Copy that Don. It's on a level concrete garage floor. I'm using a tilt adjustable tranny jack like you describe. I also have a safety strap on the tranny up through the tunnel to my roll cage that I will change out to a ratchet strap for more adjustment options. I have another safety strap under the Jeep from frame rail to frame rail and going under the tansfer case. I'll get back to it as soon as I can. I'll see about adding some cut off alignment bolts as you guys described since it sounds like they will come in handy anyway for reinstallation.

I could pull the engine out, but I just finished bolting everything to do with that back on, so I was looking to attack this from the other end.

 

this is how I roll d300,fT18 and bell


Mike I'm working in Vista all week maybe we both can attack it

 

I just spent another hour and a half wrestling it with no luck. I was able to make adjustments to the jacks under each of them to see when it was in good alignment and out of alignment. I tried many slight adjustments to each jack within the "good" alignment (vertical and side to side) and a couldn't shake it loose. It will rotate, but that's it. Maybe I'm just not strong enough to put enough force on it to make it happen, which makes me think that once it's off I won't be able to get it back on.

Steve, thanks for that. You're welcome to come by and see what we can do. I have family/school stuff going on Wednesday & Thursday. Wish I had better availability.

 

mike PM me your # I don't have it anymore

 

cj6/442 - I like your setup using the winch. I'll keep that in mind for next time. Just have to decide if it would be worth removing the soft top to use the winch vs. just use the come a long to a board over the roll bar. Thanks!

 

I gave up on pulling the tranny. I couldn’t get it to separate. I pulled the engine forward enough to gain access inside the bell housing. The clutch fork was indeed not on properly and I’m having a booger of a time getting it to stay in the right place. The lower clip of the fork arm tends to pop off very easily. Once I have both clips over the throw out bearing, I then jockey the fork around until I get the pivot indent in the right location with the other clips behind the pivot ball.

The lower clip on the arm (at TO bearing) was coming of off over and over. I thought I had it all good, so I slide the engine back in place. Now it feels like the clutch fork is loose again, having more movement top to bottom than I think it should, as if the clip popped off again.

This stuff just doesn’t come easy for me! Any tips for the fork installation from this new vantage point?
Thanks.

 

the only way to properly install the throw out bearing is to : have throw out bearing positioned correctly on clutch fork with fork already installed on ball in bell housing .then install transmission without knocking it out of place . for this reason is why I always install transmission with bell housing on as a unit .you can see what you are doing . this is a transmission I picked up awhile back . do you see fork bearing springs in groove

side view

clutch fork ball - spring

now neither the throw out bearing or clutch fork will come loose during reassembly

 

Mike what condition are the little spring tabs on the fork in ? worn ?

 

O.K. I am apparently trying to position the clutch fork incorrectly. I was thinking the thin metal clip on the back of the two fork arms was supposed to go on the back side of the throw out bearing lip. The correct location is for the arms and the thin clip behind the arms to both be within the throwout bearing groove?
That would be a Doh! moment for me.
Copy that on the pivot ball spring clip though.
Thanks.

 

Do you mean the tabs at the pivot ball or at the fork arms? They all look okay, but really I wouldn't know. I can separate the engine, pull the fork out and take a picture.

 

fork arms

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/att...ng-firewall-throwout-bearing-installation.jpg

this should clear it up

 

Thanks Walt
that's where I was going

 

Yep, that clears it up. Thanks all! I will re-do my do over as soon as I can get back in the garage.

 

Hey Mike...how ya coming with that? I am going the other way right now, I'm trying to get my tranny/xfer case onto the motor and can get you pictures of what mine looks like (to give you an idea of what you have in there). I would love to get an opinion on mine because I cannot get mine to mate up. I get it on to within a half inch of coming together and something hits, so I'm wondering if I have the throwout bearing/clutch fork lined up wrong. I've been shoving and grunting on this thing for the better part of three days and cannot get it to go together, I've measured everything and it should fit but it won't.

Let me know if you want some pic's.
Tom

 

tjones3 did you replace the pilot bushing and if so did you try it on the input shaft of the tranny before installing it on the crank?

 

Well Tom I feel your pain. I haven't had time to get back to it, but the guys here now have me on the right track. I'll report back after it's (hopefully) all back together and working.

 

Here is the problem I have



this is looking into the pilot bushing, you can see in there that something limits how far a shaft can slide in



here you can see the new shaft vs the old shaft (on the left in the picture). The nub on the new shaft is about a half an inch longer than the old shaft. When I mate the transmission to the engine I come up against something with about a half an inch to go that will not let the two come together. Is that extra on the new shaft running into whatever is at the inside end of that pilot bushing? Not having taken the entire motor apart I don't know what's in there.



The new pilot bushing is obviously open on both ends and it looks to me (as best I can see it) that the pilot bushing that's currently in there that it is closed (like a cup) but it could just as well be the crank that butts up against it. I've been wrestling with this for the better part of three days and am stuck. I'm not even sure how to get that old bushing out if it is actually all one piece. Can any of you guys who have maybe been in there and seen this weight in?
Thanks