Slow draw on battery

Seem to have a slow draw on the battery that kills it if I don't drive for a few days. The guy I bought the 5 from has the electric choke for the weber 2bbl going straight to the battery is that the right setup? Anyone have any suggestions I'm not real good with electrical.

 

The power going to the electric choke should only be on when the ignition switch is in the 'on' position, not straight to the battery. If that isnt your drain, I would recommend pulling fuses one at a time until you locate the circuit with the drain on it. once identified, it will be easier to find the part of that particular circuit than searching otherwise. Sounds like the choke though.... good luck

 

If you have a digital volt meter with an amps setting, you can easily get an indication of which circuit causes the drain. Pull the positive cable and put your meter in series with the positive connection. Your meter should show some current, say 10 mA. Start pulling fuses (as m38willys suggested) until you find the offending circuit.

The choke should be routed through an oil pressure switch. There are OP sensors available that have 2 terminals; one for the gauge and one for the electric choke. You can also buy an add-on switch that is plumbed in to the same fitting as the OP sensor. This way the choke opens only when the engine actually runs.

 

Tim I heard something similar to your suggestion, yet involving the negative terminal.

Remove the neg cable, and put a simple test light in series with that and the neg. terminal. You should notice the light ON. Pull/replace fuses until the light goes off, and that's where the draw is.

If you have a stereo installed, the memory wire (often it's yellow) will be on full time. That was the case in most of my sitches (which admittedly were pre-AMC).

 

Doesn't really matter if it's positive or negative ... as long as the circuit is complete. It's probably a little safer to remove the negative cable, since the rest of the car is at that potential. Just don't bridge the wrench to the body if you remove the positive cable first.

 

I had the same problem. Found out it was my CB. Digital readout and had to have the memory wired Hot. I changed that and now have no problems.

 

Thanks for the suggestions I didn't think that the choke was hooked up right. Is there anyway that may have burnt up the choke? In this cold weather it's hard to keep it running without keeping my foot on the gas for a minute or so.

 

- Electric choke (if working) should feel warm to the touch and, of course, the choke plate should be fully open when the engine is warm. If its not FULLY open, check the choke element/housing. Make sure you have voltage to it (use a test light or volt meter).

- Regarding the battery drain, these guys are spot on! Remember that the starter and alternator both have direct battery feed. If your pull the fuses and still have the drain (per the vm/test light) disconnect the alternator battery feed, then the starters

- Regarding a test light... The light has enough "built in" resistance to avoid a false diagnosis - like the clock on a digital radio...the radio "clock" function shouldn't cause a battery to drain.

- finally, should the test light/vm not indicate, charge the battery, and to it to a local Murry's to have it load tested. Could be that the battery is sulfated, if its older..

Good luck

 

One sneeky voltage draw is a volt meter connected straight to the battery instead of through the key.