Body mounting

Just got a new body kit(JD JUAN) for my 3A project. I want to use spray on bed liner for under side and inside. There are many to chose from any suggestions? Also who makes a good body mounting kit? Seen a lot of things used even hockey pucks. Is there a template for the steering column/ pedals. If anyones has used one of these body kits any tips would be appreciated. Thanks, Stan

 

For bedliner, I REALLY like Line-X. Used it in several applications including the bedliner on my (hard working) F350. Used it to make dog boxes, shelves and trays for outdoor use, etc. Great stuff.

The body mount cushions that are original to the 2A/3A are 1/4" thick hard rubber. You can make a bunch of them out of 1/4" belting using a saw and drill. The pads under the front tub supports on the firewall are thin rubber 'anti-squeak' pads. If you go to thicker body spacers you gain nothing worth mentioning and often create problems with clutch, brake and accelerator pedals and linkages. I like stainless washers, nuts and bolts for body mounts, and I use a bit of anti-sieze on the threads.

 

Duplicates of the original body mounts for flat fender Jeeps are available from Walcks http://walcks4wd.com/body-mount-rubber-pad-military-and-cj-models.html Jeep PN A4416.

The original Jeep parts were made from tire sidewall.

 

I used a 1" lift puck from MORE off road and a 1/2" poly mount from kaiser willys. It gave me the lift I needed to run 33" tires.

 

Thanks for the info, ordered the mounts from Walcks. I would like to apply the bed liner myself any body had good luck with any certain brand. I see some are sprayed and some you can use a paint roller.

 

Fab first, coat second..

 

I used Herculiner on my 7 with such good results that I also used it on my flattie build. It comes with a small brush and a roller included. I would recommend one of those paint stirring attachments for your electric drill to get it mixed up properly. The rubber particles tend to lay on the bottom of the can if you don't and it won't roll out evenly.

I used CJ5 body mount bushings on my flattie- gave me a 1 inch body lift. No issue with pedals or steering as I went to swinging pedals. I also use stainless hardware for body mounts.

FWIW,
Mike

 

Thanks for the info all. I found Herculiner at Lowes for $70 for the kit. Mounts coming from Walcks and purchased the SS hardware. Can't wait for the weekend to get going.

 

I used Herculiner on my rear 3B bumper and after only a couple of years, it looked like crap. Like a lot of stuff you get what you pay for but, i this case, getting the crap off isn't easy. Line-X and Turbo Liner are both good and leave a nice finish. I wasn't real excited about Rhino-a little too goopy for my tastes, but at least it doesn't fade and sticks well, attributes that are largely absent with Herc.

 

(duplicate)

 

The SPI kit is viewed favorably on their forum. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Spray In Bedliners.htm
http://www.spiuserforum.com/forumdisplay.php?43-Bedliner

No personal experience - I don't care for the look. Modern 2K paints are quite tough if applied correctly, and I don't see the need for a coating on top of that. Unless you plan to haul bricks or lumber or such in your CJ.

 

I took a 3 inch circle hole drill set up and drilled the sidewalls out of an old set of non directional tread tires to make the pads. Rubber holds water longer that you think and WILL rot out your steel body ,,,,so use clear high grade caulk between everything to keep the water out waaaaay longer. Once it is all bolted together put on nytril gloves and smear more on the seal it even better, get the thread too it seals the air from the possibility of rust there too

 

Great idea using the silicone, will remember this during final mounting.

 

pictures pictures . we want to see tub
:uwop:

 

i second the spi very nice to do business with and a good product.

 

Trying to get pictures up but am not to computer savvy.Put the tub on the frame and ran into my first fab problem, I updated the drive train to a 225 V6 w/ T14 and D20 t-case and used the stock cross member. Seems the T-case and trans are to high and hit the bottom of the tub. Going to spend the day modifying the cross member to lower everything an inch. And the single D20 lever needs more clearance.

 

M D JUAN Blues! Got the body mounted and then tried to attatch the fenders. The left fender went on with some problems but mostly fit except the strut that bolts to the frame is an inch or more forward of the frame mounting holes. Have been fighting with the right side for 2 days and have given up. It appears to long or bent at an odd angle. This strut is also forward the frame holes and when bolted the grill it will not line up with the body and when bolted to the body will not line up with grill. Tried shimming the body and moving it back and forth. At the end of my wits. Thinking about buying an old original fender and seeing how that works. Still trying to get photos up.

 

Hopefully this link to photos will work. http://s1370.photobucket.com/upload?location=

 

This is the link hopefully. http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/wb3eim/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

Found a good fender and it bolted up nicely. If anyone is considering buying MD Juan fender or body kit make sure you get the newest improved ones. I like the idea someone is making affordable replacement bodies and parts but the QC and customer service should be better.