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Another drag link/bellcrank question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ncz, Apr 20, 2014.

  1. Apr 20, 2014
    ncz

    ncz New Member

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Messages:
    18
    Well got it all replaced and it all feels tight and good. Did the tie rods, bellcrank rebuild and draglink rebuild. Did the tie rod flip from Goferit, worked great! Now that I am looking at my Haynes manual(I know I should get the FSM), I am doubting what I did. Two questions

    1. I may have reversed the drag link. The pic in my manual sucks and I should have paid more attention but alas I did not. Everything fits fine, clears, and tightens up but it still bothers me. Right now the easiest way to say it is that the drag link end on the bellcrank has its zerk fitting pointing at the left front shock, the end on the pitman arm has it's zerk fitting pointing at the exhaust manifold. I am not sure this is how it should go but I am hoping I lucked up. Still looks harder to put a grease gun on it than I remember

    2. The bellcrank went well. I tightened it up firm but the arm moves freely with minimal effort, it doesn't flop around but you don't have to force it either. My problem is that the whole bellcrank bolt turns when I turn the wheel, you can watch the nut on top of the mounting trunnion turn. I thought the clamp bolt was supposed to hold the bellcrank bolt still and the actual bellcrank should pivot about the bolt. I safety wired the top nut so it is not going anywhere but I still don't think it is right. I tightened down on the clamp bolt as hard as I could but bellcrank bolt still turns. I did not grease the upper end of that bolt either. I have already wrung the threads off the clamp bolt supplied by Omix, luckily had the original. Does anyone know the torque for the clamp bolt? The Haynes manual says 70-90 but man that is a lot for that bolt

    PS the OMIX parts SUCK, glad I listened to you guys and saved the original parts. I don't think they can run a good set of threads to save their life. OK guys, please help, really don't want to disassemble if I don't have to....but I will, thanks for any help
     
  2. Apr 20, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,834
    FSM shows a 90ยบ zerk at the front, a straight zerk at the rear.

    More critical, the internal parts assembly order is different at front and rear, regarding the ball seats and springs.
    Front, the spring and spacer are assembled between the connecting rod and ball seat; at the rear the spring and spacer are between the ball seat and the end plug.

    This is important to keep the ball safely captured in the rod.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2014
    ncz

    ncz New Member

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Messages:
    18
    Thanks Pete! I went and looked and danged if both zerks look like they are sitting at 45 degree angles, figures right!! Let me ask this, one adjusting plug is listed as "large" which really means "longer". It is the one with the cup built into it, does the FSM say that plug goes towards the front(bellcrank) or the rear(steering box). Thanks again
     
  4. Apr 20, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,834
    Plug with cup should be at the bellcrank (front).

    To be certain I would suggest you also check the "keyholes" the ball ends fit through into the drag link rod. They theoretically should aligned so as not allow the ball to escape if the spring compresses.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2014
    ncz

    ncz New Member

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Messages:
    18
    Thanks Pete!! Lucked up for once and got it right, also double checked the sequence of spring, seat, etc. Sometimes it works best when you close you eyes!! Thanks again. Any idea on the bellcrank bolt?
     
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