Alternator recommendation?

I have a workable 40 amp Motorola alternator for my L head.

I plan on adding a Warn 8274 winch and AGM 12V battery (probably grp 27). I will run both the starter, access, and winch off the single battery. I think I am going to require a higher output alternator. I am think maybe a Delco-Remy one wire amp, but I am not knowledgeable on the subject, so I am seeking recommendations. I'd rather buy once.

Thanks,

 

I think this is the one I run - if you get a FLAPS guy who can only look up parts with a make/model, you have to ask for a 1986 Camaro 5.0L High Output (HO) Alternator ... 94 amps. I think you have to install your own pulley.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1000852&cc=1035593

 

Thanks, Troy. I'll check that out. This is a three wire alternator, right?

Mike

 

Any Delco 10SI or 12SI alternator will be better than the Motorola. The one recommended above should be the 12SI. The one wire version should be fine. The only downside is you have to rev a bit to excite and there is no provision for a charge light. The latter will make no difference if you run a volt or amp gage. If you do install a high amp version, make sure the battery lead wire gage is sufficient for full output. You will probably need 4 or 6 gage. If you want an amp gage, make sure that is also big enough for the expected output, and again, that thick wire needs to run all the way to a battery lead/starter lead. I put a circut breaker in that lead but a fusible link will also do the job.

Most Delco generators and alternators have the same shaft diameter so you can usually directly swap the pulleys.

 

Yes, three wire, but I think three wires are better ...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/three-wire-delco-10si-12si-alternator-question-194535.html

 

Well, a Warn at a pull of 8000 lbs draws 435 amps at a nominal 12V. So if you are actually pulling, your alternator is never going to keep up - then it's all about the battery.

Mad Electrical has a good article about choosing a 10SI or 12SI alternator: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml - I would not worry about the clocking, since it's easy to reclock one of these alternators if you know how.

I would advise against running any amp gauge other than a remote shunt type with these alternators. For automotive amp gauges, all the charging current goes through a low-resistance shunt in the gauge, so trying to put 94 amps up to the dash, through one of these gauges and back is a ticket to a dash fire. Run a voltmeter and put the alternator's battery connector directly to the battery.

 

I didn't mean to imply that an amp gage was a desirable thing to do with a high output alternator. I ran an amp gage for decades with a 63 amp 10SI and it worked perfect using an 80 amp gage. But then as now, there was circut protection in that battery lead. When I went with a 160 amp alternator, that wasn't remotely feasible and then I went with the volt meter.

And yes, a winch at stall will pull way more amps than the starter and more than just about any alternator will produce unless you go the Leece Neville route. However, in my experience, even a 63 amp alternator is sufficient to quickly bring a good battery back up to full charge after winching. If it isn't, the winch is also going to need a break anyway.

 

Thanks. Good advice that I will have to chase down the details -- wire runs, alt bracketry, and gauges. I will be running a DEKA dual purpose AGM battery, I have had exceptional luck with these in my Landcruiser and my F350. They recharge quickly. The winch will likely not see a lot of sustained use.

I was hoping that I could use the stock ammeter in my 2A. Maybe I need to run a shunt that will send the corrected amperage to the gauge, or is this even possible?

Thanks for the substantive assistance. Much appreciated.

 

The ammeter measures the voltage drop (V=IR) across the shunt and converts that to amps. I believe that Stewart-Warner sells remote shunt ammeters. The shunt would be located under the hood, between the alternator and the battery. Then low voltage wires would go through the firewall to drive the meter. These meters are something like 50mV full scale, so you'd have to pay attention that your low voltage wiring was well executed, so as to assure accuracy of the meter.

The Stewart-Warner gauges look a lot like the original gauges, but I expect your original gauge is meant for the generator and only goes +/- 30 amps full scale or such. Even if you could use a remote shunt with that, I expect it would peg badly in normal use.

 

Simply put, go with a volt meter that will actually tell you something.
A 3 wire alt is better as you can utilize the white or brown wire in the two wire plug as the ground wire for your charge light.
The other side of the charge light goes to switched power.
That simple, no mystery.
A charge light will help in two ways.
One is that if it is on you are not charging.
If the light is on you may have lost your water pump belt and are about to overheat.
No benefit whatsoever in running a one wire alt other then it costs 3 times what a regular 10 si alt costs.
Every part store in the world is going to have a 10 si on the shelf for about 30 bucks.