Fuel Line Replacement?

So, I'm going to install the new fuel pump I just received on the Jeep.

If I'm going through the trouble of replacing the tank and pump, I might as well replace the lines no? It makes sense in my head at least...

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1727/willys-jeep-fuel-preformed-steel-lines-parts-accessories

Here's a kit on Kaiser's site....is it worth the $100 or can I just pick up some lines locally and bend them myself?

 

Personally, I would get line at FLAPS and DIY. I prefer to learn how to do anything that I reasonably can.

 

I am all about learning a new skill. I already own a small bender so, I don't see why I couldn't do it. But, I tend to be over ambitious sometimes and it bites me in the ***.

Excuse the ignorance...but I'm assuming FLAPS is "Something Local Auto Parts Store"?

 

Well, get a little extra and practice. Nothing wrong with practice.

I got over ambitious and tried to bend the line on my jeep and almost kinked it this morning. Not gonna do that again.

And yes, FLAPS is an acronym for "Favorite Local Auto Part(s) Store".

 

Great!

Well, I'll get down there and measure what's there and then add a pinch to that! Hopefully, the ID/OD is listed in my parts manual*

 

The F134 apps use 1/4" line as I recall.

How long is the tubing? You can use steel tubing (brake line) or cunifer or aluminum. The cunifer (copper-nickle-iron alloy, also called Nicop) is easy bent but expensive. I bought a 25' roll of 3/16" nicop for about 30 bucks on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-COPPER-NICKLE-BRAKE-LINE-25FT-/121114571785 (this guy is the cheapest - he should have 1/4" also) Great stuff - easy to bend. 1/4" for fuel line will be a little more. You can also use aluminum line, available from Summit Racing and Jeggs. My understanding was that copper or aluminum for fuel lines is a bad idea, because it fatigues and cracks. But this stuff is specifically for fuel, and seems to be well received by those that have used it. Also easy to bend.

I'd buy a package of clamps from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-routing-clamps/=o2awe4 - make sure whatever you use has short rubber sections wherever it needs to flex, and is securely mounted elsewhere.

 

I'll double check but, I know for a fact they sell it in 12 and 16" lengths but, that obviously, is not ideal for this application. Seeing as the set up looks like there are at least 7 separate bends that would mean a lot of joining together...which IMO means there more are opportunities for failure.

I'll look for the cunifer as that seems like a solid idea. Even if 25ft ran me $50 that's still half the price of a kit.

 

Check this out.

http://www.amazon.com/S-U-R-R-Auto-...3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376507997&sr=1-3#

 

Cheaper than Nicopp - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2514/overview/

Supposedly the aluminum tubing is easy to bend.

If you can bend the steel line, it's the cheapest option:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Brake-Line-Tubing-1-4-O-D-x-25-foot-Coil-/370859830878

My local Advance Auto has the Nicopp lines, but eBay was cheaper for a coil.

 

I ran my fuel lines with long lines of 5/16" and 1/4" from the local Autozone and Napa using a HF bender. I did have to borrow a larger bender from work to do the 5/16" lines though. I'm happy with the way things turned out.

A few bits of advice:

Buy a decent bender, but not the fanciest model out there if your not doing it for a living. A bender that does 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 would be enough to bend any type of hard line found on a Jeep.

Practice bending on a few scrap pieces before beginning. Write down the bend radius for each size line for future reference, this is crucial for getting the bends to sit tightly into corners and whatnot.

 

Did you use flare fittings or compression fittings?

 

Fuel line typically does not use fittings. You connect the sections with short lengths of rubber hose. You have to use some rubber hose, to take up the movement between the frame and body, and the frame and the engine. If you use one solid piece of tubing, or connect the sections together rigidly, the tubing will crack and/or break.

You can prepare the ends to keep the hose on better - I use my double flare tool, make the initial bubble on the end of the line, and not finish folding over the flare.

 

If you are using a steel tank, perhaps it makes little difference but with all the ethanol in gas these days, steel may not be the best choice from a corrosion standpoint.

And don't the original Willys/Jeep lines have invert flare fittings? Obviously a hose clamp and a straight tube end works if you don't have FI-I have more than one vehicle around here with that bubba arrangement.

 

Duffer,

I do have a steel tank so, the steel line has been ordered. Hoses and clamps are on their way too. So, it's just me over thinking how I'm going to install everything.

As far as Ethanol - we have one shop locally that has the ethanol free goodness. So, I plan I running that in the Jeep going forward.

As always, I appreciate everyone's input!