Dauntless Wiring Issues Ignition switch/starter/coil

I have a CJ3A that has a dauntless motor swapped, in regards to the actual wiring of the ignition I thought this might be the best location to post it. I am trying to clean up the PO mess and installed a new wiring kit from NW-Auto wire, I have followed their directions but seem to have an issue with the wiring of the ignition switch/starter/coil.

Ignition switch is a new universal switch, 4 post. The starter cranks over when in the "start" position, but no firing...in the "on" position and it starts right up. The wiring kit calls for the S starter posts to run to the (+) of the coil if the ignition is electric (Not sure if that is the case, but doesn't seem to make a difference when that wire is disconnected). It seems the R starter post runs through the switch to the (+) coil post as well? Am I missing a ballast resistor?

Any help will be appreciated.

 

Ballast resistor won't make a difference in whether it runs or not.

DO you have a multimeter? Check which posts are connected to the +12V supply at each position. You should wire the switch so that the coil wire is hot both in the RUN and START position.

If your switch won't do this, you'll have to take the coil voltage from the starter solenoid.

The GM engines use a Delco starter that has an integral solenoid. IIRC there are two small posts on these solenoids. One of the small posts is used for starting, and the other supplies voltage to the ignition while the starter motor is running.

Here's the general idea -



You won't have a neutral safety switch. The ballast wire connects to the RUN terminal of your ignition switch.

The ballast resistor is needed if the coil is designed for one. You can buy a coil that has an internal ballast resistor, or a coil that uses an external ballast resistor. This will be printed on the coil. All points ignition systems need a ballast resistor of some kind.

 

Be sure not to overtighten the mounting nut on a universal ignition switch...you will make it do funny things...don't ask me how I know...mine called for 12 in/lbs I think....

 

Maybe not in this case, as he doesn't have one.
But on a Jeep that has one, and the ballast goes bad, the Jeep won't start.
Just clarifying, that's all. (maybe confusing??)

 

Well, I assumed that if there's no ballast resistor, the ignition switch was connected directly to the coil. The RUN terminal of the ignition switch has to be connected to something, because the OP says that when the switch is turned to "on" the engine runs.

 

Did a little more investigation, it will start when trying to bypass the switch and I believe it will stay running without the start wire, I am assuming I might have a faulty ignition switch, and just might put a push button starter with a key to on.

Second, i realized tonight the coil pack requires a ballast resistor, would a resistor go on both wires that run to the coil or only one? Does this mean I have a non-electric ignition?

 

You only connect the resistor in series with the wire from the switch. When starting, the coil should be connected directly to battery voltage, for extra spark intensity.

 

The "S" terminal on the starter (the small stud closest to the block) goes to the "S" terminal on your ignition switch. The "I" terminal on the ignition switch goes to the ballast resistor then to the "+" terminal on the coil. You will have another wire on the "+" coil terminal that runs down to the "R" terminal on the starter which is the small stud outboard side of the solenoid (further-est from the block). This same wire is sometimes connected to the ballast resistor vice coil terminal. The 4 post universal ign switch does not have power to the ign "I" terminal when the key is in the "S" start position so that is why you have to have the wire from the solenoid to the coil.

 

This thread was very helpful. I just started wiring my 69 Cj and was having some issues. LOL I forgot about the solenoid on the starter. Im use to the old Bronco/Mustang solenoids on the fenders.