Are these frame dimensions correct?

Is this diagram correct for a 72 - 75 CJ5?

 

from jp mag? i think the numbers in red have been corrected.the original article was wrong.the factory frame is 131.38 inches long. with the front bumper on it would be around 132. got the factory info here Jeep® 1974 TSM online

 

Yeah, what always got me about the JP article was that they used a 59 (I think) CJ5, so I wasn't sure if that was the short nose or long nose.

 

short nose but they ran a longer front rail for the power steering

 

So if I used those measurements, it would work for a 72 - 75 CJ5?

 

What's wrong with the frame you have now?

 

I havn't looked into it that deeply, but I'm betting I'll find some cracks right around the firewall/rear spring hangers. The nose seems to point up and the tub seems to point down. The rear of the front leafs are also bent. I'm not sure if that's due to it having been a snow plow eariler in it's life or if it was jumped. Either way, I'm expecting to find some frame damage.

 

looks bent to me too note the uphill slant on the rail... and yes that frame would work on a 72 to 5

 

I'm also trying to figure out what's up with the front springs. Both are like this. If you look closely, you can see where the frame appears to tilt upwards.

 

Looks normal except for the bent springs. The bent springs are accident damage - happens when you hit a ledge at high speed. Drives the axle backwards and bends the springs. The springs are scrap.

And the frame should be level between the axles.

 

Maybe it's time to reassess your commitment to this vehicle?

Just a suggestion. I think you'd be better off to look for a vehicle with fewer issues.

 

That one has definately been ridden hard and put away wet.

 

Do you have any photos of the underside? That would probably help us tell how much of a project this is going to be.

At any rate I wouldn't trust specs out of a magazine (much less JP) to be correct if you are thinking about welding up a new frame.

 

It has the remains of a plow mount on the front, so I'm assuming the springs are bent from repeated ramming of snow banks to pack them down with a plow. I had somebody tell me to just take and cut a pie shape wedge out of the bottom and weld it back together to bring the frame back to straight.

As for the springs, they have 9 leafs and the back and probably 9 or 10 in the front. I fully intend to replace all 4 springs with new packs.


At this point, after considering the time, money, and effort of bring this one back. I'm considering other options. I really like the character of a CJ5, but if I could find another CJ5/7 for a decent price (under 3 grand), I'd probably jump on it. I'm also considering finding a YJ and doing a front clip swap. I just don't think the YJ has the same old school feel as a CJ.

 

I don't think so ... the plow does not mount to the axle. You have to ram the axle backwards to bend the springs. And a bend like that indicates an impact more severe than running into a snow bank at low speed.

 

I think the next step is to yank the tub and sheet metal and start measuring the frame.

 

I just finished building a "jp Mag" frame from their dimensions. I studied that series of articles for weeks lol. Once it was built, I determined it could run either an early nose, or an intermediate nose. If I were going to do it again, I would add 3" to the front for intermediate. BUT not sure I would do it again!

The frame came out very nice and I'm really happy. But there are bunches of little stuff that you don't think about and end up eating bu-cu hours fabricating. Brake hose tabs, E-brake tabs, shock mounts, fuel tank brackets, body supports, T-case supports, etc, etc....etc, etc.

Another issue is the YJ spring set up pushes the rear axle backward considerably, if you set it up as JP did. I used the Rusty's Offroad 4" YJ set up (spring under). Fortunately the axle-spring perches brackets and spring plates I picked up (from Mike's) had multiple holes for locating the rear axle. I moved the rear axle forward 1". Also, mine has a glass tub and I was able to completely open up the rear fender wells...so I ended up OK. The front spring/axle location is also forward of the early cj fender locations.

At the end of the day you are building a jeep from scratch, not sure how I concluded that was a good idea!! hahaha. The wheelbase is much longer than either cj version, so that means custom drive shafts, which I have learned are cheap and easy to build from older K5 blazer front axles (1310 joint, 2" tube).

My has a 79 wagoner front Dana 44 and a rear from Ford 73 F250, which is Dana 60 (both cut down to a 60" WMS)

Conclusion is DON'T unless you have hundreds of hours to spare and you are willing to build a jeep from scratch.

Good luck!

 

If I'm going to buy a quality tub, I figure a new frame would be a good idea.

Anyone have any thoughts on a throttledownkustoms frame?

 

If your frame is swiss cheese it is a REALLY good idea to replace it. If you can find a decent replacement frame & box it, or a custom fabricated frame (from a frame vendor) you will be miles ahead of scratch building from box tube.

Good luck