Frame Build-up questions

I finaly got some funds to begin putting the '71 back together again. It's been sitting in pieces on my garage floor all summer.

I had a BROKEN frame which held me up. I now have had it completely rebuilt, welded partially boxed ect. It's now in getting sandblasted and I should have it back in a couple days. I plan on having it powdercouted once modifications are complete.

Now is the opertune time to consider any modifications or welding stuff as
I do not intend to do this again for many years.

Whats involved with a shackle reversal? I've got, I believe a good set
of 4" lift springs and shackles all around. D44 rear, D27 front.

I've cut out and am installing a ps bracket to the frame. ( thanks Mcruff!)

What about the shock mounting? Is any of it worth it? I do some serious
trail driving and occasional 'shouldn't- go -there type jeeping. any opinions are appreciated.


Rob '71 CJ-5 rebuilt 225 V6 4V offy intake, lifted, rebuilt D14a,rebuilt D18 w/rebuilt OD. Renegade I (no tailgate, rear gas tank) NO RUST

 

Sounds great! I'm assuming that the power steering is the '72-newer Saginaw?

If you plan on riding the '71 rough, consider reinforcing the spring mounts so as to avoid lateral flex/breakage. Previous owner of my '68 did that by simply welding a 1/4"-thick square of 2"x2" metal to each side of each leaf mount.

Also, now's the time to anticipate how your roll bar can attach to your frame somehow. Good luck and let us know how it's going. 8)
-alan

 

Thanks for the post Alan,

I've boxed the front to the cross member on each side, boxed at all four spring mount locations.

I want to add a winch eventually, does this require a base plate out in front of the radiator? do I have to fabricate-weld something here, or is there something available for winch mounting?

I've heard the benefits of shackle reversal, anyone know how difficult
this conversion is? would I have to change the springs?

now I'm getting itchy, I can visualize this baby getting back on the road.

thanks all,

Rob

 

Speaking of a shackle reversal, I've got a 55 Cj-5 sitting in storage with a factory shackle reversal. When bought it last spring($400 bucks for that and a running 60 cj-5! what a deal!) and noticed that it was shackle reversal, I first thought that someone had done a fab job on it. But after looking closer I could see that the welds were original and that it looked very clean. Then I thought that I had to be a M38A1, but the body and other accesories weren't kosher with that. I even wrote to John Cappa at JP magazine and they published their response in an issue, he assured me it was an A1, but I'm very confident it's not. He did say however that real early cj-5s probably had carry over parts from the military. The frame on this thing is seriously strong and boxed almost totally. I've heard that shackle reversals give you a little bit better approch angle and also help you handle on the road better.

 

Mike , If you're curious as to how reverse shackles ride just drive any chevy truck with a straight axle, they have always been that way and as for factory cj5s having reversed shackles, the buddy of mine has an original 56 cj5 with the u-bolt looking shackles and not reversed shackles and his great uncle or something bought it brand new, another old family vehicle.

 

Here's my $.02 on the shackle reverse...I've spent the money and had it done ($400 later...didn't have a welder at the time) so I can speak from experience. The handling is without question better, but worth the money, hmmmm probably not. If you decide to have it done, make sure you check your front driveline...it extended mine by about 1.5". I could've or should've spent the $400 on saginaw or help with a locker, but live and learn.

 

Now would be a good time to add a receiver hitch, recovery points etc. Attachment points for custom bumpers ? A welded bolt up front makes a good point for ground strap / cable etc.

 

I like the shackle rev. On the road it cured that wandering feeling and off road it really sucks up the bumps. The front driveshaft needs to be addressed. I'm using a long spline/long travel shaft. You need extra room for it to collapse as it moves a lot more than a stock setup. When you approach a rock (size large) with the shackles in front, as the axle moves up it also moves forward into the rock (or obstacle), with the shackle rev., as the axle moves up it moves toward the rear. A more natural direction as it allows the tire to move up and over the rock. Just my .02 though. Everyone has their own opinion. I wouldn't trade mine.

 

MOP:
'68 CJ5
V6
D27
D44
4.88 gears
Ross box
3spd
D18
Warn
32" MT tires
full cage
front shackles

Jayhawkclint:
'70 CJ5
V6
D27
D44
4.88 gears
Ross box
3spd
D18
Warn
33" MT tires
roll bar
reverse shackles

Ran the same trails at Tuttle ORV in Randolph, KS, one JEEP behind the other. There was no apparent inherent advantage that my reverse shackle setup had over his. Mine is still a rough riding ECJ5. i think the springs in MOP's seat made more difference than anything else.

Rode around town in his JEEP to the convenience store, gas station and such. Ride and handling were the same as mine, although I think mine has more brake dive.

I will definitely give a big 10-fo to Posi's statement about the steering. I run a stock V6 Ross box that is straight as an arrow, and I think that is partially due to the reverse shackle setup, but probably not for the reason you might be thinking; I did mine using a frame mounted shackle hanger, not a pin through the boxed section of the frame. As a result, I ended up with a ton of castor. Actually had to shim back the opposite direction just to get my pinion angle back. I really think it is a direct result of castor angle, not necessarily the reverse shackle.

IMHO. YMMV. HTH. And all that jazz.

 

Man, talk about a zombie R) . It's so funny...I don't usually bother looking at the posting dates unless someone says something. I think this is the oldest one I've seen in a while.