Automotive Paint

I went to a local paint supply store today and got a price on paint, I have decided to paint my jeep back to its original color of "Riverside Orange" rather than use some of the paint from work. The paint that the counter guy recommended for a Jeep that was gonna get used in the woods and such is made by Dupont and is a ful-base synthetic paint, he recommended a gallon, it uses 1 quart of thinner per gallon of paint. The paint was $111, the thinner was $22. Does this sound like a decent price and have any of you used this paint on a vehicle before? The price does not bother me, but does it sound about right compared to other paints used for this purpose. The riverside Orange is the color used on the 71 Renegades.

 

I prefer PPG concept. It is a single stage urethane. The dupont you mentioned sounds like a Laquer, which is not very durable and loses its shine rapidly. The urethane products are great and easy to use.IIRC, the Dupont product is Chroma one.CHeck it out

 

I used paint from NAPA the Crossfire system. They can mix the original color in either single stage or Base/clear. I used the base/clear worked out great and the clear will help protect the color as many scratches won't get through that layer. I used about 1/2 gal of base and just over a quart of clearcoat. The cost will be a little more but IMO its well worth the few $ extra, but that's my $.02.

 

I have used sythetic enamals for some time now pobably not unlike the paint you were going to use from work it's bout half of what you quoted for automotive paint. This was at the urging of the guy at the paint store when he found out what I was painting. He told me it was close to the finish that came on them and very durable and if I want to be real glossy I could color sand and buff. Otherwise that is about what I found when I checked on the same type of automotive paint for a project a while back. Oh yeah the guy I deal with said Dupont had a less expensive line with just fewer colors.

 

I've used single stage acryllic enamel from Napa (crossfire) and from a paint & body supply (nason, I think) and have decent results from both.

 

Thats what I've found with the right amount of hardner they seem to be pretty resistant to scratches and since most I have used are non metalic they are easy to match if they are damaged.

 

The above paint I mentioned is an enamal, I found a dealer about 5 miles away that is a PPG dealer, I will find out about the paint from him tommorrow. I really do not want to use a 2 part paint if I can get away from it, that is one of the reasons I am shying away from the paint that they use on the paint lines at work, lord knows I have enough colors to choose from since we paint parts for Mercedes, Nissan, Toyota and Ford.
http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1972-jeep-pg01.jpg

The Riverside Orange #2114 is the original color of my Jeep.

 

I used the PPG Concept also. Came recommended by the counter guy where I shop. He said if you are spending time on bodywork, and painting a vehicle you plan to keep (rather than just unload trying make a quick buck) go with a quality paint that is going to last. It was my first paint job to speak of (I did paint the fiberglass top on my K5 Blazer years ago) and I was very happy with it. Excellent gloss and very tough. I actually tried out one color "Indian Ceramic" a stock 1967 color thinking it was a dark orange, turns out to be a coral pink. Since I already have a pink Jeep (see avatar) that wasn't happening. Went with Renegade Blue, which is either a 70 or 71 color. I had to beadblast the pieces I had experimented on, and let me tell you that stuff was TOUGH to get off.

 

The price you were given sounds about right to me. Also see my posting below on an earlier thread about painting expirence with jeeps. Just wanted to pass it along.




I am not a professional auto paint man. However I just painted my 56 Willy’s with the original “Comet Blue” color paint. I went to my local ABC auto parts paint store, and they called a color lab who looked it up and gave them the formula.


They had several grades of paint they could mix it in. I opted for a cheaper base coat. It was $56 per gallon. This along with the hardener and reducer kept my price to about $85.00 I used the recommend method of mixing in a hardener, and was extremely pleased with barn painting results. This is the 3 rd jeep I have done. It gets easier each time. And I would put mine up against a MECCO paint job any day.

Call any of the auto shops and see where they mix their paint. They should be able to get you the same color.



I know you didn’t ask, just wanted to offer a couple of quick painting tips. I remove my hood, fenders and grill and paint them separately. That way it is easier to paint the fire wall and the inside of the fenders. A quick and easy masking method for the motor and any other parts you do not want to paint is to use aluminum foil. I also painted my gear shifts and steering column gloss black before painting the jeep. I also covered them with foil. This is an old trick I learned from my antique tractor friends.

 

use sherwin-williams from flaps. base clear. have done touch ups on the dd (03 chevy) no problems with base/clear coat. used the touch up bottles, coated as needed.

 

Sounds normal on price. I couldn't believe how much that automotive paint was when I had Binky painted. And I love how the places around here that sell actual automotive paint have "banker's hours." God help you if you don't get all the stuff you need during the week for that weekend painting session.

You'll all probably cringe when I tell you this, but... My M715 is a flat olive drab (OD paint #24087 to be exact). I had Home Depot make up some exterior grade latex that matches exactly and I just use that. I just brush or roll that on wherever it's needed and it's worked great and has been the most "freeing" thing for me. I no longer worry about any dings, dents, modifications etc. as I know I can match the paint.

Obviously an old military truck lends itself to the "latex solution" better than a shiny, "real" paint job. But next time Binky needs paint I'm going with something I can apply and match easily: "rattle can" or latex.

Stan

 

Thanks Cliff for the pointers, my Jeep will be completely apart and on saw horses in the garage , so literally every square inch will be repainted, with the wheel wells rhino lined or something.

 

He he, mines been that way for two years now. For all I know I started that trend. Does this mean I don't have to finish painting it?

 

I remember back in my high school days seeing full size Chevy and Dodge trucks done in just primer and thinking they looked BAdA$$. Often you would see the wheels painted the same way, which I also liked.

I STRONGLY considered doing my -5 in flat olive, but thought it would look like I was trying to pose as a M38A1, which it ain't. I get enough questions like "that's an old military ain't it?!" as it is.

Now, just a flat colored finish, I like that idea. But I'll tell y'all, I painted my hood with rustoleum out of can (not spraycan) using my real paint gun, it turned out really good, but faded like the dickens in a few months of exposure to this Hawaii sun. I think one would still want some kind of quality paint even if going with flat finish. Could one just use the color from a base/clear type product and skip the clear? Or does the clear provide the UV protection?

Course there is always rhinolining or similar. Do the whole thing. I saw a Grand Cherokee at a Jeep Jamboree one time that had khaki tinted rhino lining from the body line (around door handle height) down to the rocker. The GC was a metallic Khaki color, and it looked really good.

 

[The urethane products are great and easy to use.IIRC, the Dupont product is Chroma one.CHeck it out[/QUOTE]
hey 63junker,
have you used the chroma one---i found a great deal on a mismatch here at my local dupomnt in mexico. it is not wuite the right color but he is willing to make it right--and like i said the price is right. how does it spray is there anything i need to know---other than normal stuff. i've painted ten or twelve cars and trucks. any weirdo charcteristics of the paint or cleanup???

ray

it is so cheap i'm considering painting a beatup cement mixer as a guinea pig.

 

Several here have had good results from the PPG Omni MAE acrylic enamel. It used to be online at autocolorlibrary, but I can't find it now. It's about the least expensive good quality automotive paint you can buy - from (IIRC) ca $80 for cheap colors (tan, white, black, gray) to $200 a gallon for the most expensive (red and purple metallic). $111 sounds like a good price for for a single-stage orange - orange is an expensive color (IIRC), but solids are less.

Wow, this is an old thread. What brought it back?