probably a crazy question

heres what i wanna do i want to drive this jeep to the trail and go playin and drive it back home so im not trin to destroy it i want to keep this thing for yrs and yrs but i dont wanna spend a million . i work for the fd so the state dont pay that well

 

Then leave the stock axles and put new springs under it and better tires. Modern lift springs generally ride better than factory and are more stable, especially with good shocks. My Jeep has a dana 30 front, factory rear 44, a 2 1/2" Rancho lift with Heckathorn shocks and I drove it on the interstate 120 miles or so (at 70mph) and then another 80-85 miles down service roads to Tellico, wheeled it for the weekend and drove it home. No need to have wider axles if thats all your gonna do. Wider axles would cost more than a lift kit or new springs by a long shot.

 

You can use Powerlocks, front or rear, lock rights in front or rear or Aussie lockers in the rear, they don't make one for the front if I remember right.

Lock rights and Aussie's are know as lunchbox lockers and are fairly easy to install without major work. I have an Aussie in my front dana 30.

Lunch box locker.





Installed in axle:

 

great tellico isnt still around is it i thought it was closed down thanks for the info wat will a dana 30 wrk out of under my jeep ?

 

i looked on assie website there are two lockers witch one is the right .

 

for the dana 44

 

I would go with the waggie axles myself, and plan on doing so myself. I have a 69. with the offset rear 44, spicer 18 case and the warn overdrive. the waggie axles will give us the full width plus the waggie 44 has flanged axles instead of tappered. and it will work with our 18 case if we get one out of a automatic waggie for the offset rear. you are gonna have to get rid of you case and rear end if you want a centered rear axle. too much for me. and I want to keep the over drive. waggie axles are going in mine at some point.

 

good advice , basically what i did i have lockrights front and rear with no probs. rebuild the drive train, clutch to the hubs and replace all the wear parts( they are worn out ) saginaw steering also helps drivability, cost me about 300 for the parts for a manual saginaw

 

Sorry, Aussie must have stopped making the unit for your rear axle. Lock rite still makes them.
Go here:
http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/jeep1lr.pdf

 

what dana 30 will fit my cj a yj or something ? if i can get a lil wider like a inch or two ill put spacers in the back?

 

CJ only. Around late '82 iirc the CJ went "wide track" which is wider than the earlier CJ-30's, but is still the closest to a bolt in.
No, a YJ, TJ, XJ, Scout, 30 won't work easily. The YJ, TJ, XJ 30's have the drive on the wrong side (driver's side), wrong wheel bolt patter, use unit bearings, and lots of other variables. The work is going to be the same or more using the Waggy 44's as well.

 

Depends on the year of Wagoneer you get the 44 out of, early ones had tapered axles.

Automatic had little to do with it. Depends on if it was equipped with the Quadratrac transfer case or the Dana/Spicer 20 transfer case. All the 6 lug units were offset, but the Q-trac units were more offset to the passenger side as the Q-track had an offset rear output similar to the 18 transfer case.

 

is the wide track dana 30 wider than my dana 44 if so how much ? the narro axle what year the did the axles start to coming in the cj

 

The wide track 30 is quite a bit narrower than the Wagoneer axle and is darn near a bolt in. The spring pads are already in the right location.
'72 was the first year for the open knuckle 30 in CJ's but had drum brakes up until around '77 when they went disc brake. The narrow track 30 is about 1 1/2" or so wider than a 25/27 and the wide track is around 3" wider than that. It is almost a bolt in but the drag link will need attention as will the brake hoses, and possibly caster angle depending on what set up you have now. Easily fixed typically with 3 degree shims between the spring and axle housing.

If your Jeep has the small yoke stock in the V-6 Jeeps you may need to change front driveshaft and front output yoke on the transfer case. Might try the search function for "Dana 30 conversion" or similar as there is tons of info on this.

Here's a link to get you started. http://www.earlycj5.com/technical/axles/model-30-swap/

 

so the wider track is 3 inches wider than the dana 44 in my rear so if i put 1.5 spacers on each side then they will be the same front and back right ?

 

Jeeptech http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/ says the D30 WT is 56", and your D44 NT rear is 50.5". So 5.5" difference. But rear axles are typically narrower than front axles, so you could use 2" rear spacers and it would look ok.

1.5" or 2" is a lot of spacer IMO. I expect you'll have bearing problems by extending the wheel that much.

 

A set of these will make the factory rear end strong, I don't know if summer brothers still makes them however.

 

ive got a power steering pump and a steering box off a xj think that would work for the steering conversion