66 CJ5 Rebuild

You do know that the caps holding the carrier in the housing need to go back in on the same side they came out of and that there is a top and bottom to them. Sometimes they are marked, sometimes not. You can use your old bearings as setup bearings by grinding a little off the inside of the cones so they are a slip fit on the carrier. I bought my install kit from Randy's Ring and Pinion.

 

@Eric...It's a Detroit Locker

@Posi...My friend gave me that locker and I need to ask him if he remembers which cap goes where. Somebody marked the caps but I need to figure out what is what. The price you pay for free stuff I guess. I'm familiar with the old bearing trick.

 

Terry,
On the bearing caps, have you taken apart your original D44 yet?
You would want to mark the caps on your original axle to identify side to side and also top/bottom. Keep the original caps with the housing. I think you will have no use for the caps your friend gave you with the new locker.

Don

 

Don,
I haven't removed the carrier yet, so I will definitely mark the original caps and use those for the locker. Thanks for the tip. :tea:

Jonah

 

You're Welcome Jonah,
Sorry about the name mixup. So few guys on this forum post their first names, I looked on your profile for yours and saw the name Terry. I looked again today and saw it was on a message that someone else sent to you!

Good luck on the locker install. I am looking to do the same thing on my BumbleBee Jeep, it has a wornout Trac-Lok that is just about useless. I am trying to decide whether to dump the bucks for an ARB air locker or something else.

Do you have the tools you need to set up the R&P in your axle or will you pay a shop to do it? Also have you figured out how to get the bearings off without destroying them?

Don

 

That would be me

Me

 

Don,
I plan on doing the R&P myself. This will be my first attempt, so I have educated myself on the process. I have a bearing separator, shop press, dial indicator, and beam style torque wrench. I know about using the old bearings for set-up. I found a really good article that is well written and very informative. Getting closer, axles pulled. Next I will mark the caps and remove the guts.

 

That is the same article I used to rebuild my Dana 44. First time doing gears, I was a little nervous about it. 3500 miles later and they are doing just fine, no noise and a good wear pattern.

 

There should be a letter stamped on the bearing caps and on the side of the housing that should show the relationship they go togethter. Most housings I worked on where marked from the factory this way.

 

That's good to hear...how is your tire carrier coming. Did you start on the Jerry can mounts?

Jonah

 

Yeah mounts are all done, and the trail rack is in rough form but pretty much done. Kind of over built the jerry can mounts, used 3/16 plate and 1/8 2x2 for the arms. I think it will work.

John



This was my final pattern on my gears, I also ran a full Detroit. These were Dana gears.
Drive

Coast

 

Jonah,
If you are talking about the clamshell bearing separators, you will have a real problem trying to get the bearings off without destroying them. I tried using the clamshell style, and could not get under the inner race on the differential case side bearings.
Here is the style that works:
http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361...aring-puller-tool-t-p20-dana-30-44-60-70.html

Randys R&P sells these under the Yukon name for a lot more money than extreme custom parts, thats where I got mine. They really work, quick and without any damage at all to the bearing.

Everything else sounds like you are set up with what you need, the shop press and dial indicator.

Don

 

You can buy a lot of carrier bearings for the $270 they want for that bearing puller. I use a clamshell type without too much problem. Yes, I have trashed a bearing with it. But it only cost less than $50 to replace it. If you have setup bearings, it's not a problem.

 

Been working on my axle situation. I scored a sweet set-up from my friend. He is swapping out his axles for Dana 60 and Corp 14. I will beusing his Dana 30 narrow track front end and his dana 44 with a Detroit Locker and 11 inch drums. This was the exact set-up I have been looking for. R)

Here is a pic of the 30 with 4:27 gears


And the 44 with locker and 4:27 gears. He broke the short axle shaft at the splines. My plan is to use his housing and already installed locker/gears and add new axle bearings along with my axle shafts. I will replace all of the 11inch drum brake parts including new drums.

 

You'll have a great axle setup.

 

Been working on the rear axle and now it's complete.
I replaced lots of old parts
New inner and outer oil seals.
New cups and cones.
All new brake parts and drums.
New axle nuts and keys.





Here is a list of current part numbers and prices for brake parts, all from Autozone. I used parts from a 1974 CJ5.

11 inch drums...#8753...$51 a piece
Wheel cylinder (15/16" bore)...#33600 left and #33601 right...$10 a piece
Brake shoes...#228...$27
Self adjusting kit...#H2540 left and #H2541 right $10 a piece
Spring kit...#H7137...$8

The only parts that I reused where the e-brake parts.

Before


After


I used Chassis Black by NorthStar for my paint, along with hardener. This stuff works great and no primer is needed. I used the Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun.





Now for the front axle...

 

Front axle is finished and looking good...

Before


After



I painted the rotors with black caliper paint and replaced the bearings. Also painted the spindles and replaced the spindle bearing. New Spicer axle u-joints.









I welded a small piece of tubing to the stock vent hole and I will use a piece of 3/8 hose to move the vent up inside the frame.




I'm currently working on shackles for the front and I'm almost done with the axle u-bolt plates.

 

Looks great!

 

Looking good, thought you disappeard.