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CJ 5 Power steering

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by CJ5USMC, Nov 4, 2010.

  1. Nov 4, 2010
    CJ5USMC

    CJ5USMC New Member

    Pensacola FL
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    I have a 73 CJ 5 with manual steering. Wondering what hydraulic pump and gearbox I could get the most bang for my buck. Im not interested in paying for a new one could i just pull a system off a later jeep?
     
  2. Nov 5, 2010
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,540
    Shouldn't this be in the Intermediate Forum? You'll have to post what engine you have if you want some info.

    (Oooops, I guess it is) Senior moment. Ha Ha
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2010
  3. Nov 5, 2010
    CJ5USMC

    CJ5USMC New Member

    Pensacola FL
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    I have a 304.
     
  4. Nov 5, 2010
    Bob Greenslade

    Bob Greenslade Member

    Roseville CA
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Messages:
    232
    If you have pick and pulls where you are try a late 70's Waggoner with a 360 for the pump, hoses and brackets I think the steering box will work also. You'll have to shorten your steering I believe
     
    Michael Graff likes this.
  5. Nov 5, 2010
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,526
    The photo below shows manual and power Saginaw boxes side by side.
    The power box is from a 1973 Wagoneer; the manual box is factory CJ 1972-1975.
    Although the p/s gear housing is longer, notice how input shaft, output shaft, and mounting hole bolt patterns are the same locations; the exception being 4 bolt for p/s; some folks use the 4 holes, some only the three. (I'm using only three)
    To make this work for CJ application, the tit on the end of the input needed to be ground/cut off for bell coupler clearance; tit is used for rag joint application.
    http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/powersteering001-1.jpg

    here's a photo side by side of the factory Jeep pitman arms.
    manual on the left, power on the right.
    these arms are straight, not dropped. (unknown what you need)
    this shows the larger inside diameter shaft size for the power box.
    you will need the pitman arm for a power box. (drop or otherwise)
    the tie rod openings are the same.
    http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/pitmanarm-1.jpg

    here's a photo showing the new p/s bell coupler.
    externally, the manual and power bell couplers appear the same.
    you'll need the one for power steering as the shaft diameter for the p/s gear is larger; the internals for the bell coupler are the same.
    http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/powersteering1002-1.jpg

    in closing, in addition to pump, brackets and hoses, you'll need the p/s gear, the p/s pitman arm, and the p/s bellcoupler.
    the steering shafts should not have to be modified, as well as the drag link and tie rod ends.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2010
  6. Nov 5, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
    Messages:
    905
    Nice info! I had to learn most of that the hard way two years ago.

    Sent from my HTC Liberty using Tapatalk
     
  7. Nov 5, 2010
    CJ5USMC

    CJ5USMC New Member

    Pensacola FL
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    8
    Awesome those pictures really help. Im still trying to find a donor car but thats exactly what im looking for.
     
  8. Nov 5, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,530
    Excellent info Jim!

    Also keep in mind depending on the year and how the vehicle is equipped the pulleys may have a different offset so grab the water pump and crank pulleys as well.
     
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