Ignition shuts down , why ?

Been working on a basket case . Put a 71 dauntless V6 in a 68 . point ignition . New points , condensor and coil . Coil is the internally resisted type so you run 12V to it . I have also tried a standard coil with a resistor . It acts like the system is over heating the coil or condensor and shuts down . Cools off it will start again , Why ??

Now i have put a 1 wire GM alt on this . THe wire feeding the ignition is coming right off the alt . If i split that and run off the battery i cant see how it would do different but maybe im getting to much voltage ??

Last question . 71 jeep dauntless 225 v6 . This is an odd fire motor ? HIE for what newer buck V6 , 75 buick ? THe last question i have found in a search in the past but i forget now . If the points shut down is not resolved soon its getting HEI .

 

Don"t know if this will help, but I had the same problem last year. I ran a wire straight from the battery to coil just to see and the problem went away. Seemed that the ignition switch itself must've been heating up. I wound up running a seperat switch to send power to the coil. Guess I could've bought a new switch, but this way if I leave my key on I won't burn up my coil. Hope this helps.

 

I presume you checked fuel somehow ... though it wold not start up without cranking if the bowl were dry.

Agreeing with above, the ignition switch is a common source of ignition problems. They can be intermittent. You can haywire a toggle switch to bypass the ignition and just use the ignition switch for starting. Under the hood, hanging from the dash (tape it up good), whatever.

 

It is detrimental to run the BAT wire from your alternator directly to the ignition switch unless you have another heavy 10ga wire on the BAT terminal running directly to the battery POS. The battery acts as a swamper or filter as such to hold check on fluctuating voltage output from the alternator.

 

I realized that too and seperated them . alt to the battery , then a wire from the battery to the ign switch . ign switch is new . Plus when it shuts down i have tried going battery to coil , it didnt fire . This is definately a spark issue and more so a coil breaking down . Swap in a cold coil it fires right up or let it set until its cold it fires up . replaced a brand new coil expecting a faulty one . didnt help , tried a standard brand with resistor same result .

suspected a condensor bad , replaced .

new parts are . ign switch , coil x 2 . points , condensor 1 wire gm style alt . optima red top battery .

 

Might also check the wire that goes through the distributor body to the points. They can be a source of this type of issue. They can break inside the insulation and leave just a few strands making connection and when cold the ends of the broken strands make contact. The wiring heats up, resistance goes up, no more connection or not enough voltage to the points and condenser.

 

Im leaving for a long weekend in the morning , maybe time will heal all wounds and it will be better when i get home ,,,,,,,,,, ummmmm im thinking not

worked on a lot of point style ignitions , never seen this issue before .

 

You need highly trained gremlins for this self fix and those buggers are harder to find than the fix itself. I do agree with nickmil and also the ground wire from the breaker plate to the dist housing. Make sure your alternator is regulating at not over 14.8V +/- .5V. Also check the coil wire to dist cap (high tension).

 

hope this can help. I had this problem last year on my 69 with a chevy. 327.
I left the key on and fried everything. I got replacement coil, points, condenser,
even went out and got a new distributor. would not start, any way once i got it running it would only run for a few minutes and shut off. I had been given the WRONG coil, and I had a very had time getting the correct one. IM not at home now so I cant tell u what kind i ended up with but I beleive it was a internal resistor so I didnt need to run a sep resistor. dont know if that was my only problem but it started and ran just fine. I went through about 5 coils before I got the right one. All the parts guy clamed they had the one I needed but was wrong. I hope this is some kind of help.

 

Think i found the problem . I found one of my old motor manuals that covered electrical systems . This system apparently used a high resistance wire which dropped voltage . This is a fiberglass tube ( who knows who wired ) and its standard copper wire to the ign .

 

Sounds like you are describing a fusible link.

 

When you put the jumper wire directly from the battery to the coil, it bypassed this special ignition wire you are talking about. You said the jumping directly to the coil did not make it start? You still have a problem with or without this special resistant wire in the loom.

 

orderd a HEI today for a 74 buick appolo 231 . I certainly hope that is an od fire motor .

 

Im still looking for the " correct " HEI dist for this 225 . The point set up shutting down was this .

The condensor , coil set up must work together as a unit . The condensor i had did not like the china made coil . I put in a standard coil and new condensor and it does run but i still am searching here looking for the PN for a GM HEI