Pictures of my 327 as requested

Valve tuning by 5 year old!

 

That is looking good i have a sbc in my jeep as well.

 

When you see it you will poop bricks..... R) R)




Nice, a 327 was next on my list after a 283 for a swap in my Jeep. Good looking motor but not a fan of the valve covers sorry to say.

 

if you can find them, a set of closed chamber heads with the 2.02" intake valves will make that motor come to life. I had and still have a 1967 327 that has those heads pretty much bone stock except for a mild cam and it would jerk around a half ton 4x4 pickup like it was nothing, roasted a montie carlo with it

 

A 327 was the first sbc in my 3B back about 1973. Solid lifters, 11:1, GM aluminum Z28 intake, 650 cfm Holley, long tube Hookers, and the "fuelie" heads. Even with 5.38 gears and no od, at 7K you were moving pretty fast and the experience was a one time event-just didn't feel very good watching the hood pulling up the springs on the hood latches.

Nice to have a little bit more room to work with in a 5 or 6. I couldn't get tall covers (actually stock covers with milled 1/2" spacer) on the 3B until I put the 1" body lift on it as there was not enough room to get them off without removing the brake booster.

Nice looking installation you have going there.

 

Nice. I’m a fan of 327’s. Being a short stroke motor they pick up revs in a hurry, and I really dig that.

 

Thanks guys.

The 327 is my fav motor. I also considered making my own GM 302 like the Z28 Camaro came with using a 283.

A 350 would have made more torque but in a 65 Jeep 327 is still overkill.

"Nice, a 327 was next on my list after a 283 for a swap in my Jeep. Good looking motor but not a fan of the valve covers sorry to say. "

The valve covers are chrome because I like shiney motors
The valve covers are tall because of my valve train choices
The valve covers are Edelbrock because I like Edelbrock and hey its my motor

The heads are casting 3998991 74.5 cc heads from 1968-1979 came on 307-350 sbc. Stock was 1.72 and 1.5 I went up to 1.94 and 1.6 stainless valves. I have $1000 into the heads back in 2001.

I bought a 270 grind 4x4 extreme Comp Cam 270/278 duration 480/498 lift flat tappet hydro. Part CL12-243-3. Matched lifters and valve springs. Titanium push rods. Aluminum roller rockers.

The motor should be good for around 300 hp and 300 lb of torque I will dyno it once everything is running!

 

Heh, I hear yea.
Mine aren’t chrome, they’re cast aluminum but they would shine if I put some elbow grease into them. Plus they say “Corvette Power” which was worth 20 horses by themselves.

 

Nice motor does the block color indicate the color of the jeep?
Yea, bit of overkill there but that is all part of the fun in building a jeep.

What is that break booster out of?
Is that the makings of a seat in the back?
Are you going to eliminate the filler hole on the side when you go with the rear tank? I see myself overflowing my tank one day and having the gas run over the hot exhaust. Sure someone has/has heard of someone doing this.

 

you can't have a sb Chevy in any color then 'Chevy Orange' and be alive in my circle of buddies.

The Jeep is Blue

The brake booster pedals and clutch are all from 1990 Wrangler

No thoughts yet to a back seat.

I am still working on the cut and fill of the tank filler neck. I have a 20 gallon plastic baffled fuel cell inside a steel box. I will probably mount it under the tub between the rear axle and rear bumper.

 

Very nice! I pictured you as being a little older though. Going w/ a 30 spline FF is a good choice. I would definitely find or machine a set of flanges for it. Being able to lock and unlock is cool but if you play hard they may not get you home. Flanges might fit your driving style a little better.:v6:

 

here's my 305 in my 70 cj5. i just got my edelbrock intake yesterday so i will have my 4bbl installed this weekend. i had the outside frame rail headers and experienced some gas spilling over but it usually evaporated before it hit the exhaust tip. i wouldn't worry about it. i'm installing a 15gal tank in the rear to prevent this and to get more than 100 miles to a tank!

 

Nice. I was about to ask what you’re doing with that dinky little carb on a V-8 but sounds like you’ve already got that taken care of.
Have you checked the clearance for your steering shaft between the block hugger headers and your frame rail?

 

Whats your plan for steering? Are you going w/ power or Ross?

 

man it is nice to see someone else took theirs apart as far as I did mine!

I have a picture somewhere of me lifting the tub with my engine lift.

Gives you a chance to paint the frame and really get to know every nut and bolt personally!

You go through A LOT of wire wheels and die grinders but the end result is beautiful!

My first car was a 1986 Caprice Classic Broughm with the electric carb 305 V8 and the 700R4 transmission. That was a good motor even with 5,000 lbs of sedan to move around. Do a little head work to get the compression up and let her breath put in a good low torque cam and you've got a great motor!

 

Are you going to run a PCV valve on that 327? If you don't there will be a lot more oil leaks, and sludge.

 

Not necessarily. I ran mine for several years without a PCV and didn’t have any issues with the oil. I will admit it does evacuate condensation better with a PCV and if you get emissions tested you will more than likely need a PCV.
I personally didn’t add a PCV until I went to a much more radical cam and found I couldn’t get it to consistently idle without one.

 

I don't want to run one and probably won't need too.

The option is there if need bees. 270 grind cam should have a nice lope but not need PVC.

What I would really LOVE is a dual tunnel ram with 2 small 4 barrels! I think that would be great useless but great!

 

Something like this!