Please dont shoot!

I have heard alot about the M20 and how with one peice kits they are purdy good. But I would prefer not to use either one, M20 or 23. What axles are you running dauntless?

 

d 44s f/r and they are 64" wms to wms

 

Good lookin build you got going on. Im looking between 58 and 60" should be good for me. What springs are you useing? She sits nice.

 

My rear axle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Waiting for a lump of dough to come in and I am oh so hoping that this is still here! If you look closly...I do beleive I can see some wires coming out of the diff. Know what that means? It means awsome...yes. Plus!!! It has 456. Which means I can use my rear d44 456 for my front waggy 44 and just need a few bills for a locker.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-9...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

EDIT::: I got excited....its just the brake line.

 

The M-20 with one piece axle conversion still suffers from thin wall tubes, small axle bearings, a thin cast center section, and a collapsible spacer to control pinion bearing preload.
Glad to hear you aren't planning on using one.

I'm not harping on you at all, but I've seen soooooo many problems with these axles that there's no way I could ever recommend one to anyone. When the FF conversion was being prototyped for these some of the folks in R&D at Warn Industries told me BRAND NEW NOS housings were bent from the factory, probably during the welding process.
I've retubed with DOM thick wall tubing more of these than I care to think about because of bent tubes. Even then we've run into so many distorted pumpkins it wasn't even funny.

 

Oh no I dont think your harping on me becasue I agree fully. My buddy runs one in his cj7 with an e-locker and 4:88s with the one peice kit and he swears that its better than a d44 JUST because the ring gear is a smidge bigger. But if you twist your tubes in the houseing or bend a tube or smoke the inerds of the diff, then your bigger ring gear means purdy much nothing. I'll take a smidge smalled r&p over a weak housing any day. Plus, they look kind of dumb with that big, round diff cover, not that it matters but it looks like its just begging for a rock to smash through it and into the inside. I will not be running one I swear haha. Im bout 90% stuck on the ifs toy rear end.

 

Be careful going by the wires, they are the ABS connection. An elocker has the motor external on the housing, it's very noticeable.

The Toy axles work for me mostly because of the narrow width, with 4" backspace wheels and TJ flares I can pass inspection. I bought this Jeep with the axles already hung, and at first was looking for something to replace them with. After some reading I was convinced they were the best alternative, and with longfields and high steer and 35's they will be strong enough for anything I want to do. It seems every week someone on our local board is looking for a tie rod, mine is out of the way, and the small diffs have great clearance.

 

Good lookin rig you got there and thanks for the advise. I was looking at a small picture and was happy untill I enlarged it. I dont drive my jeep much on the road anyways but once I get my other axles installed I will probably just fab up a way to have plug in mud flaps so the cops leave me alone.

 

I had no rear bumper for awhile, and the shop that did my inspection made me put mud flaps on. I made them with a piece of EMT tubing, welded a bolt head in one end and let the threads stick out. The Jeep has holes in the rear framerail, just stick the bolt in there and turn on a nut. I cut up some flaps from a big truck and used sheet metal screws to fasten them to the tube. I took the flaps off after last inspection, but kept them.

I can't seem to find a pic of them, here's one with the rubber ripped off. (This was before the recent paint job and the old tire carrier without the bumper.)

 

Thats a purdy good idea. I'll probably do somthing simular. Good thing about flap material is my uncle works at a place that makes rubber products for the military and they throw sheets and sheets of 1/4" thick rubber matts away daily.

 

I got another question. When I do swap some axles in, I am wanting to stretch the front forward about 2" and the rear back about 2-3" as well using TJ flares. I was going to run stock XJ springs, but I know they are long and a little flexy so people say to add a couple leafs to the packs. I have also heard that 79-83 toyota (i know i know) rear springs have the same 27.5" center pin to front eye measurement as the XJ's but are 3" shorter on the long side making for less overhang. Now which end of the leaf should the shackle go? I would think the short side since it wont have the flex of the long side plus to gain WB the short end would need to point towards to rear bumper where the shackle will be mounted. Sound about right or am I missing somthing???

 

Alright, well since there are ZERO driver drop waggy 44's with manual hubs around here, I am just going to go with the Toyota axles. I am useing a rear IFS 8" and front out of an '85. I will be using 1 1/2" spacers in the front to match the rear width. My rear axle already has 4:56's which I am currently running and I just bout a v6 3rd member off ebay with 4:56's and a lock-right all brand new put together for $300. I go hopefully this weekend to get another np435 but this one is already mated to a twin sticked dana 300 and has a jeep bellhousing on it and ready to be bolted in. Anyone know how this big ol unit will fit in the jeep? I will be moving the rear axle back about 2" or so when I get them put it.