Slow Build 73 CJ5

I would not remove bellhousing from the tranny or you'll have to do some runout checks to make sure your tranny is properly centered. If off center you'll eat pilot and throwout bearings. I kept my bellhousing, tranny, xfer case together and degreased with Gunk in a can. Then washed with nylon brush and Simple Green. Then painted with POR15, topcoated with Rustolium black. I put on a few coats of each paint so it's very well protected from rock chips. In fact, you can hardly see the casting texture anymore. I painted the bellhousing with aluminum colored Rustoleum topcoated with satin clearcoat, which knocks the glittery effect down to looking like cast aluminum.

I also upgraded to a Centerforce I clutch. That's the gold one that is an upgrade from OEM, not the red one that is for drag racers and not too friendly for daily driving. FYI, the throwout bearing included in the Centerforce kit was not correct so I had to buy one anyhow. The pilot bearing was correct,though. The pilot bearing changed across the 304 model years so be sure to check the pilot bushing fit to the shaft before installing it. Otherwise you'll install the engine and find it either won't fit (best case) or it's a sloppy fit and you'll never know it until your tranny bearings crap out (worst case).

If you keep your clutch at least change for a new pilot and throwout bearing. I changed mine because I could afford it and didn't want any questions left in my mind about it. It was too easy to do it when I had it apart, and if you can afford it I highly recommend changing it now.

Chilly

 

Thanks Chilly!!!! Lots of good info. I did not remove the bell housing from the tranny, instead I removed it all as one piece along with transfer case. I have degreased it with purple power, and coated down with the permatex rust treatement. That was yesterday today I am gonna apply rustoleum red primer and black rustoleum. I have ordered a new throw out bearing, fork, pivot ball and springs. I also order new shift rod seals for the transfer case rods. I will paint to day and try to reinstall as soon as my bearings arrive.
Lee

 

Had a bad afternoon today. Finished painting tran and transfer case, set it back into my building with the tractor and was heading back to farm when the water pump on the tractor went down!!! That will slow down the jeep build for awhile, gotta help dad fix tractor now. Still waiting on a few parts any way...
I ordered new speedo cable, vent to fill hose fitting for 73 (found it at Willys Overland), pivot ball, throwout bearing, throwout fork, inner/outer spring, seals for shift rods in transfer case, also got Bob at Willys O to find me a good used shifter mechanism for my transfer case. Mine had a lot of wear on it and makes it very difficult to shift into 4 low. I will try to get a pic of my newly rust treated and painted tran tomorrow for everyone.

 

Sunday afternoon project...
Finally got the parts in from Willys Friday, spent this afternoon installing, new release bearing pivot ball, inner and outer springs, also got my fitting to finish linking fuel hose to vent hose. The install was pretty tough but we got it installed, started remounted, dust cover back on. Man it feels great to get that sucker back in. oh also put on new speedo cable. Next project is to install a used but good transfer case shifter, and begin installing my body. CANT WAIT TO SEE THE BODY ON THERE!!
Here are some photos to view.. Don't count me out yet guys I am gonna finish this thing!!


I read on here somewhere that this piece, the link from vent hose to fill hose, could not be bought, However, if you call Bob at Willys Overland he can get it.. lil pricey though... $35 plus shipping.

 

Thanks!

 

Yes, looking goooood!

TD

 

Update time!!!
Saturday went very well! I spent first part of the morning replacing clutch linkage and rubber boots on it. After that I began contemplating the body mount. I was completly flustered after about an hour of looking, measuring, scratching head, thinking. Soooooo, What did I do????
Same thing I always do when I have a prob. Got on the mower, mowed the grass for awhile. This is the 2nd place I do my best thinking!!
I decided to mount grill first, then mounted fenders to tub temporarily, this allowed me to get back to front distance adjustment. Afterward Dad showed up so we measured about 20 times from frame to outside of tub. This gave me the side 2 side adjustment I needed. After this we placed bolts into mounts that lined up. (I am mounting a 76+ fiber tub on 73 frame) Then devised a plan to use an old sushi cutting board from a Publix, as reinforcement for other mount areas. I will glue this to bottom of tub to keep rubbing down then proceed with regular body bushings etc. Lastly we cut out the shifter, transfer hole in bottom of tub.

I have a few questions.....

Can someone give me a photo of outriggers attachment to fiberglass tub??? Mine seem to need some kind of bracket.

Next where can I get rubber body bushings? I have run out?


How did you attach fenders to grill? Did you use nuts that were already in grill or bolt through?

Where fenders bolted (at top) through the firewall??
My firewall has an inner and outer part so I can only get about 3 bolts at the bottom.

Here are a few photos of my handy work. PLEASE COMMENT, CRITIQUE ETC...
ALL ADVICE IS WELCOME!!

 

I'm not sure I would stack the bushings like that body mount kits are fairly cheap..

here's an example. http://www.jcwhitney.com/POLYURETHA...6+1961;0;100001;ProductName;0;0;0;0;2005794;0

just my .02 but awesome job enjoyed reading this build I just started on my '61 today figure it will be a 24 + month project ( will be deploying next summer so that adds 12 months right off the bat) gave me the encouragement I need to keep at it

 

There are things called "nut-serts", I think. A special tool is used to install them, sort of like a giant rivet gun if I recall correctly. My Dad used nut-serts quite a lot with his 4WD brand fiberglass body. Worked pretty well for mounting fenders to tub, maybe he also used them for hood hinges? Can't recall. I think he drilled through the fender and bolted to the threaded inserts already in the grille, same as was factory. Use fender washers so you don't crack out the holes.

Be patient lining up your front fenders and hood with the grill. Start from the firewall and work forward because you can always adjust the grill height to keep things lined up.

Windshield hinges can be a bugger. Sloppy oblong holes will let the lower hinge move around.

I agree that the body mounts are way too tall. I'd rather see you weld some 4" square tubing to the frame mounts so you can use a single wafer, maybe two. But if ALL of your mounts are like this I really recommend a spring lift.

4WD Hardware in Columbiana OH sells body mount rubber "logs" that you can cut wafers from all day long. Maybe Quadratec sells the same?

One of your pics looks like the tub might be rearward just a bit based on wheel well opening. Maybe not, though.

The tub will flex a LOT from the clutch linkage reacting between frame and firewall. You'll need some bracing to stiffen up the firewall to the frame, but it will still need some flex so use rubber pucks there, too. I think that's the mount you are calling "outriggers". You'll have to fab that piece. I know of no kit.

 

Resurrected my build thread. I have been accumulating parts, saving $ and the wife is pregnant so, my CJ got pushed to the side. However I am BACK! Got my Grill, Hood and front KC lights back from paint, also designed a shifter cover and had it buit out of stainless steel to go with my fiberglass tub, washed/degreased engine and installed front and rear lights since last update. Here a few pics of what I have, I will post some more when I get hood mounted and fenders, dash from paint. I ordered my wiring harness from EZ wiring and my dash from Logan Metals. I am VERY PLEASED WITH THE DASH!! It took a while b/c of 73 year model but the price was $139 for reg steel and that is more than fair with all cutouts including stereo.
Here are some pics of my grill and kc lights the color of my jeep will be Wildfire Red, I believe it was a Ford Color.
I am considering Herculiner for inside tub any comments will be welcome... Good? Not worth $? Is gallon enough?
Thanks
Pics to follow...

 

Spent today doing odd and end jobs, got my dash back from paint and bought some nice looking chrome bolts to install. Got it all in. Next removed all old hoses and replaced, also removed valve covers and got degreased and ready to paint. Removed old master cylinder and got new/used one ready to paint and install. It rained here today so paint will have to wait, for later in week.





You can see in my engine pictures I have not removed my exhaust manifolds. I am kinda of worried that bolts will break or wring off. I really would like to clean them up and paint them.

Any advice??

 

Lookin good!
man that new tub looks sweet! 8)

:lurk:

 

Put some Kroil or PB Blaster on the bolts and some heat if you can. Be patient-maybe spend a little time on them whenever you get a chance. If you can get them to start turning, loosen them a little and then tighten them some. Basically move them back and forth.

 

Thanks! I am going to try it tomorrow. Hopefully they will loosen.

 

Well got all manifold bolts out except one which rounded off. So I took grinder and cut the head off the last bolt. The manifold is now free to wiggle. I have given her a good soaking in pb blaster and will let it marinate over night. Tomorrow after some rest I will try again to get it free.

 

I snapped two manifold bolts off on mine. Was able to drill and tap one of them, the other broke the tap off inside then snapped the tap extractor tool off inside as well. So after scratching the head for a little bit, i just bolted it back together. I got used to the tick and will fix it some time in the future. Good lookin build so far!

 

Hope I don't have to go that route! Only one bolt and manifold is loose, gonna continue to try and work free.

 

Well good luck! Hope you can get it out. I aint too worried about mine right now since I need to have my heads rebuilt anyways...figure I'll just have them fix it while there workin on them.