Rear Floor - What to do?

I`d like to know what those with experience think of these ideas.

1. Bolt thick smooth 10 ga aluminum to custom frame with stainless button head allens
2. Weld in thicker than stock steel with a smooth finish in place
3. Obtain a bead roller & make my own replacement floor out of 18 ga and nice rolled beads - weld in place

In the pic below you will see a rough Photoshop outline of the frame that I am making to replace the rear floor, hat channels, and other rust and solidify the tub a bit. The blue lines on either side represent 3/4"x3/4" square tubing. The yellow lines represent 3/4"x1.5" tubing that will replace rusted out hat channels. Everything will be fully welded and capped, and the bottom part of the wheel tubs will be welded to the square stock - after they receive some rebuilding & patches to restore them to original size.

The frame will be completed on Saturday if all goes well. After that I either purchase a bead roller or some thicker material.

 

You are right - I just usually figure that by the time its paid for, shipped and hopefully fit - I will be in as much as a bead roller & cheapo brake to make my own patch panels throughout the Jeep. Also, i`m hoping to pick up a skill or two for the long run, I plan to restore a pickup or something like that someday, alot of the investment & skills learned will carry over to other projects.

Also, this Jeep needs a ton of work, it`ll never need to be restored "correctly". I need to brake and bead roll alot of panels I think.

 

My 69 CJ 5 has a piece of 12 ga. steel bent in a U shape that fits right between the wheel wells and is cut to fit the shape of the inside of the wheel wells right up to the top of the fender. Then another piece of 12 ga. on top of the entire fender well for the roll cage to mount to. It goes from the tailgate right up to where the floor drops down behind the front seats. Heavier than stock, no need to roll an edge, easy to weld. I'm sure it could be made from lighter guage hot rolled steel.

 

the rear floor is alot of flat sheet, even the best shops making replacements wind up with some warping in them when all of those beads are rolled into them. I would recommend buying one premade and reduce the headaches. there will be smaller panels you will want down the road that will justify and be better learning projects for bead rolling... $.02

 

Good point with the warping. I am going to have to reconsider & see if I can find a good vendor for the floor pan itself.

Reds - good idea that must be really heavy but also tie everything together really well. How do you like the smooth floor, do things slide around easily or doesnt really matter?

 

I did the same but with 3/16 steel i think it is. It would have been 125$ or so if i had to pay for it.