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Tie Rod End Removal

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Kaz, Jul 23, 2009.

  1. Jul 23, 2009
    Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Delaware
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
    Messages:
    51
    Previous owner obviously used some very low quality cotter pins on my tie rod ends. They rusted fast to the castle nut and what little was left to grab with the pliers was so soft it broke off immediately with almost no force. I guess that this means I have to cut the nut off to remove it?

    Also, for a CJ-5 with the Dauntless, is the tie rod end size 11/16" or 3/4"?

    Thanks
     
    Kaz, Jul 23, 2009
    #1
  2. Jul 23, 2009
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
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    1,019
    Could you use a drill bit as a punch to try to drive the remains of the cotter pin out?
     
    EricM, Jul 23, 2009
    #2
  3. Jul 23, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    8,360
    If they are soft enough, just back the nut off. The cotter pins should just shear off, then you can drill the holes out after the nut is off.
     
    Patrick, Jul 23, 2009
    #3
  4. Jul 23, 2009
    Dandy

    Dandy Member 2024 Sponsor

    Estherville IA
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    Feb 10, 2008
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    x2
     
    Dandy, Jul 23, 2009
    #4
  5. Jul 25, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,530
    What they said. CJ tie rod ends were 11/16". Military M38a1's were 3/4"
     
    nickmil, Jul 25, 2009
    #5
  6. Jul 25, 2009
    IMOWOOD

    IMOWOOD New Member

    Eastern NY
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2009
    Messages:
    29
    Just spin the nut off with an air wrench, I just had that same proablem a day ago.
     
    IMOWOOD, Jul 25, 2009
    #6
  7. Jul 25, 2009
    Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Delaware
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
    Messages:
    51
    You guys were right, they sheared right off. Although I didn't use an impact wrench, I used my trusty 1/2" drive socket wrench with a 6" extension. Same end result, just my method took a little bit more PB Blaster.R)
     
    Kaz, Jul 25, 2009
    #7
  8. Jul 30, 2009
    Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Delaware
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
    Messages:
    51
    Okay guys, since I've got the front end all apart now I'm going to go ahead and get new tie rod ends. I'm not quite sure which ones to get though. It looks like there are three regular ball joint ends along with the one center joint. Are the three regular ends all the same or do they have different thread directions like the various parts websites list?

    Also, would it be better to get the the whole tie rod assembly or just the ends themselves?
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2009
    Kaz, Jul 30, 2009
    #8
  9. Jul 31, 2009
    Dandy

    Dandy Member 2024 Sponsor

    Estherville IA
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    There will be LH and RH threads. You might want to see if you can break them loose first.I've had some that were a real bear to get apart.Iowa uses a lot chemicals that rusts everthing.Count the threads exposed and put your new ones the same amount,that will get you close on alignment.
     
    Dandy, Jul 31, 2009
    #9
  10. Jul 31, 2009
    flyingyogi

    flyingyogi New Member

    Tucson
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2008
    Messages:
    28
    I just bought the entire left and right assembly from Walcks. It makes it easier to align by measuring and comparing to the old one.
     
    flyingyogi, Jul 31, 2009
    #10
  11. Jul 31, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Each rod has to ahve a LH and a RH end, so that they can adjust in length for alignment.
     
    w3srl, Jul 31, 2009
    #11
  12. Jul 31, 2009
    Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Delaware
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2008
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    51
    Thanks guys, I ended up buying the complete assemblies.
     
    Kaz, Jul 31, 2009
    #12
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