Thoughts and Opinions

First off if I've posted this in the wrong forum sorry, please move to the appropriate one. I have a 66 cj6 I am going to dig into soon. This is what I have. Solid frame with stock running gear. Dana 44 rear, dana 27 front. The leaf packs in the rear are ten leaves, 7 leaves in the front. I think. I also have a very nicely build 225 that just screams. The guy I bought the Jeep from built it to motivate this jeep in the sand dunes with paddle tires. I also have a sm420 adapted to a dana 18 t case with tera low gears and an overdrive. The t case is twin sticked. I'm undecided on what to do suspension wise? I need some suggestions as I kinda need to figure that out pretty soon. I have custom built wrangler leaf packs I was going to use in spring over fashion. That could change. I want some lift. Just not sure how much. And if I'm going to keep the stock running gear or not. I have access to stock scout dana 44 front and rear axles. I just need to go pull them and see what shape they are in. One more thing, I have all new sheet metal. New tub, hood, fenders, windshield frame. What are your opinions on drive train, lift height, and a nice functioning suspension? I would like to run 33" tires minimun. I appreciate your information. Thank you.

 

Are the stock axles worth keeping? I know the dana 44 should hold up if Ido a full floater kit. I'm not sure about the 27 though. I definatly would like front disc brakes.

 

I drive pretty sane. Not a lot of heavy pedal. I'm a little worried about the 225 power. It is unlike any I've ever been around. It's about the most potent 225 I've seen. Maybe I can tame down the power somehow. I guess it would be easier and less expensive to keep the stock running gear. Just need new springs.

 

I would drive it ill something breaks than think about upgrades. just remember that when you put in stronger axles, a chain reaction happens and the next thing to break costs a lot more.

 

Just curious do you know exactly what was done to the V-6?
IMO the D27 is weak for 33" tires, Scout axles are wider than the CJ. A NT D30 will bolt right in, give you disk brakes, stronger axles, correct width, and better steering.

 

What was done on he 225 to give it so much power? you perked my interest

 

I was only stating my opinion, not trying to argue either. I was not trying to say it will for sure break with 33" tires. He said it was built for sand but he never said that was it's intended use now that he owns it. I agree the amount of traction in sand is limited so a smaller axle will live longer. Many years ago I bought a cj-5 with a sbc built for the sand dunes in MI. After I bought it I only took it there one time, I used it mostly for street driving and a lot of trails/rocks. I broke two D30's with 33/12.5" tires.
Here are some comparisons on the two axles. The spline count is rather low (11 splines IIRC) on 25/27 axles the D30 has 27 splines, ring gear is of course smaller, axle tube is smaller. D30 has alloy axle shafts available D25/27 does not. The CJ D30 has many more gear options available from 3.08-5.38 the D25/27 are rather limited in gear selection. The only posi or locker available for a D25/27 is the lock rite, the D30 has several posi's and lockers available. There are a lot of good mods that can be done to the 27 to update it, I guess my main point is the NT D30 has all of those mods as well as some others and it is a direct bolt in and cheap. I got my NT D30 for free, seems nobody wants them they are all going to D44 or D60's.

 

Put in some soft springs, 2" or 3" is plenty. 33x10.50 tires run good on the earlies with D27. Discs if you don't like the feel of the drums. PowerLok if you just absolutely have to spend some money. Knuckle stud conversion and a one piece tie rod flip if you want a little weekend project. Call it a day.

 

The 225 has an Isky cam 272 dur. .445 lift 108 deg. lob center. Heads and exhaust manifolds have been ported. The engine has been balanced. Weind 4 barrel intake manifold, two barrel adapter with two barrel carb. I believe it is a rochester. CD ignition. It also had an electric cooling fan. My plans are for a driver and light to moderate wheeling. I have a sm420, dana 18 already built to go with the 225. I also have a fsj power steering box, unless there is another power steering box that will work better. I probably wont drive in sand very much. Mostly logging roads and wheeling in the Northwest. I want at least 33 inch tires and I like the look of 33x9.50 for the older Jeeps. Maybe with Hollbrook leaf springs 33x9.50 will clear fine. I would like the disc. brakes for better stopping here in the Pacifice North Wet. I will do a hydraulic clutch as well. Thanks for your information, keep the opinions coming. I think the rear end should be fine for strength, especially if I go with one piece, full floater kit. Just not sure about the front end?

 

I hung2.5 Softride cj7 springs on mine and changed / moved the perches. and a shackle reversal w /fox shocks too.... it's very soft it does handle like a soft hot marshmello. anybody who drives it throws the keys back at me and says never again. I Must be used to it.

 

I'm not seeing a lot of horsepower here....especially with that carb set-up on that manifold.
Could it be just a seat-in-the-pants feeling from low gearing and a light CJ ?
I'm in the wheel it as-it-is crowd first before you get too carried away.

On a side note, you can destroy any model of front axle anytime you want to with a little air and a lot of throttle; throw in a hard bounce for good measure, and some uneven landings, with one wheel touching before the other.

 

Maybe, I'll just do the disc brakes on the 27 and look inside to see what gears, power lock I might have? Put it together with a slight lift and drive it for awhile. Where do I look here for the front disc information for the 27? Thanks Everyone.

 

Thanks, I just found that. Sounds pretty straight forward. If I can add disc brakes to my M truck I'm sure I can do these.

 

You are going to want it set up for snow real soon.

A winch, good mud tires, upgrade the brake master cylinder. Don't do the SOA conversion, the jeep won't really like it, and you probably won't either. The scout axles will work, but you need to grab the D20 from the scout also. If they are both D44's they are from a Scout ll and not the Scout 80 or 800.

There is a guy right there in Snohomish that deals parts for old jeeps. Don't remember his name right off hand, but his adds show up in JPmagazine every once in a while. Mostly the pickups and wagons, but he does get the occasional cj in.

 

If you want to raise the jeep, and use 33" tires, keep the drive train you have, and put on some aftermarket leaf springs. Stay sprung under.

If you are going with 35" tires, Your vehicle will be much more stable with the wider axles. It will have a much nicer stance to it. With the 35" tires, you should go with a 4" SUA, or if you feel like doing the work, then go SOA. Of course the SOA requires many more changes. I feel mine was successful and worth the work.

Ditto, on changing the case to a Dana 20 or 300.